William B. Lorton the the Goldfields

It’s a shame that William B. Lorton’s California journals are lost. He was such a lively and candid writer — I am sure his tales of adventures in the goldfields would be a delight to read. Unfortunately they are lost in the sands of time.

We do get a glimpse of Lorton in northern California from the journal of another gold seeker — Dr. Charles R. Parke of Pennsylvania. Parke and his company had taken the northern route and arrived at Sacramento on September 15, 1849. They went north to mine on the Feather River and staked their claim “5 miles above Bidwell’s Bar and half a mile above Oregon Bar.” (quoted in Troubadour on the Road to Gold, p. 279.) They called their claim Union Bar; the location is now under Lake Oroville (or maybe not, with this dry year).

William Lorton arrived in the spring of 1850, as recorded in Parke’s diary, and met up with his cousin David Cairnes.

May 8. Dave Carns accidentally met his cousin today. He left Illinois last year in the Holt [Knox] Company train. Arrived in Salt Lake last summer, where they spent six weeks, sold their oxen, and bought mules and horses, and with a guide took the South Trail for California with one hundred horses. Thermometer today stand 900 in the shade.

Lorton had some good tales to tell.

May 15. Mr. Lorton (Carns’ cousin) entertained us today with many anecdotes about the Mormons.

And he hadn’t lost his musical talent.

June 8. Had some fine vocal music last night from Mr. Lorton, reminding me of home.

A week later some of the men went off seeking the fabled “Gold Lake” but failed to find that phantom source of riches. Parke, Cairnes, Lorton and the rest of the Union Bar Company built a dam to divert the middle fork of the Feather River. All their hard work yielded a poor return, so they left for Sacramento.

September 6. Left Feather River in August in company with Capt. Sampson and Wm. B. Lorton and came to this city where I have been loafing until a few days ago . .

Dr. Parke practiced medicine for a few months and then returned to the States. Lorton stayed on in California until 1853 or ’54, when (according to his obituary) he returned to New York City “with a handsome fortune.” He went into the business of making clocks. He planned to turn his journals into a book, but never completed the project. (Too bad!)

William B. Lorton died in 1893.

Here is a sketch he made of himself in the goldfields, all skin and bones and bushy hair.

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William B. Lorton in Salt Lake City

William B. Lorton arrived at the Mormon community in the Salt Lake Valley on August 8, 1849. To visit Salt Lake City was a deviation from the Oregon-California Trail, but one that many took in order to trade goods. The Mormons (members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints) had only been in their new settlement for two years, yet they had thriving farms and a growing population.

Salt Lake City in 1850

If Lorton’s company had pressed on, it was not too late in the season to cross the Great Basin and the Sierra Nevada mountains. But they lingered for over a month, recuperating their livestock and inquiring about the different routes. They considered over-wintering at Salt Lake City.

Brigham Young warned all emigrants that his people could not support any guests over the winter. He also predicted that anyone setting out for California by way of the Humboldt River would surely die along the way. And it is true that the California Trail was strewn with dead cattle and marked by the graves of pioneers, although many forty-niners made it through safely, if not easily. And then there were the tales told of the Donner Party. What if they made it across the desert, only to be trapped in the mountains?

Brigham Young urged Lorton’s company and others to instead take the southern route through Utah down to the Old Spanish Trail. He had his reasons — the Mormon settlers were in need of a year-round route to the ocean. So far only a couple of pack trains had made that trip — what he needed was a wagon road. He offered a trail guide to accompany them if they would take their wagons southward and break a new wagon road through to southern California.

August 14th. Never was I in [such] a delema before, or ever before struck so forcibly that it was necessary to do something, & that immediately. I now fancied I see the blues coming rappidly towards me, & the horrors grinning at me with a double row of teeth, & what makes it worse, everybody was in the same fix. No one knew what to do.

To cross the trackless desert [via the Southern Route] was burying yourself alive, & to go the Northern rout rushing in to a grave yard & riding over dead bodies. Word comes that the fort hall road is so lined with carrion that new rodes had to be made, & the stench so stifleing as to almost stop the breath, & so thick are they, you can almost step from one to another. The grass is nearly all ate up & thus alkali.

p. 175

A dilemma indeed! They can’t stay where they are, and either route could mean their deaths.

It wasn’t all gloom and indecision though. Lorton boarded with a friendly Mormon family and attended church meetings and concerts.

August 22nd. Have singing at sister Pratts & pritty girls.

p. 181

On September 24th Lorton bade farewell to his hosts and headed south to join several wagon trains that were planning to take the southern route. It was a long, terrible journey, arguably much worse than what they would have faced on the northern route. At last, in early January 1850, they arrived in southern California.

Lorton’s journal ends mid-sentence with the January 16th entry at Mission San Gabriel. The next volume is missing, so little is known of his adventures in California, a great loss.

San Gabriel Mission, by Edwin Deakin
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William Lorton and the “Stampede Company”

William Lorton experienced more than his share of stampedes while on the overland trail. Difficulties with cattle continued to dog his company. On July 19th, while traveling along the Sweetwater river, they experienced three stampedes in one day. At noon he sat down to write in his journal (the spelling is his own):

While I wrote the above [about sage hens, antelope, and hares], sitting in the waggon at noon, a “stampeed” occurred. We halted at dinner upon a high hill. . . . We had all eaten dinner. Some were lying under the waggons assleep. Others set between the wheels & others in the wagons the same as myself. They say a saddle horse belonging to packers frightened them [the oxen]. The hind teams attached to wagons commenced & as quick as electricity they were all dashing down the steep hill.

Capt. Talors little boy was run over by waggon & oxen, another had a hand run over, another knocked in the head, another run over the leg, others knocked down, cattle became entangled in chains and wheels, axels broke, wheels passed over oxen, & 1 ox was dragged way down the hill under the box with feet up. He had a horn broke off & otherwise injured. Broken horns lay all around . . .

Troubadour on the Road to Gold, p. 141

And that wasn’t the end of it.

In less than 2 hours after writing the above we had 2 more “stampedes” 1 was caused by a dead ox laying beside the road. The other was caused by nothing at all. At night while caraling, we could hardly unyoke them & with difficulty & risk of life they could be held from stampeding the approaching teams.

p. 142
Wagons forming a corral by Independence Rock, with cattle going to drink in the Sweetwater

He wasn’t exaggerating when he said that it was “worth your life” to go into the corral. A heavy crazed ox is a danger to life and limb.

The next day the mood was somber.

July 20th. Long faces, under lips, grave faces, sorriful countenances, cross men, moody mannered & discouraged. A great many felt as if a curse had been put upon them. Hundreds of other comp [companies] have not seen a stampeed & nothing appears to frighten them, while our comp. is known along the whole rout by the [name of] the stampeed comp.

p. 142

It was a tough journey, but after this he doesn’t mention any more stampedes, so maybe the oxen settled down.

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Happy Admission Day!

Don’t let September 9th go by without a salute to California, the 31st state of the Union.

To read about John Bidwell’s participation in the admission of California, both in Washington D.C. and San Francisco, see these posts: Bidwell’s Admission Day and Miss Crosby’s Blue Umbrella.

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Stampede! — William Lorton’s Journal

William Lorton was a frequent witness of one of the most dangerous events on the prairie — a stampede. Anything could set the cattle off — a carcass, or lightning, or a dog barking — and sometimes it seemed like nothing at all would set them running. Here he is, describing a stampede on June 4th:

3 o’clock P.M., as I am standing or walking by the side of the wagon the cry of men, the noise of prancing cattle meets our startled ears. You turn & look & lo & behold the hind teams running towards us like magic & as quick as lightning the spirit of “stampede” runs along the whole train. I turn as quick as possible & find 4 teams within a few rods of me with scarcely room to escape. I pulled off my hat & succeeded in turning a team coming full split on our near side. They geed off & come come in contact with the hind part of our Ark [i.e., wagon] & [it] knocked them all down in a heap.

Did ever man think cattle could make such speed. All still a minute before & now all confusion, & none can give the cause.

On they come like a mighty avalanch toward us, chains rattling, wheels grating, wagons cracking, piles of oxen upon oxen. Men thrown down, cattle run over, & all in the utmost confusion. Our oxen are not backward in the chase. Takes it [the wagon] as quick as a wink, & the first thing known, they are off. We all run after it, but we might as well stop! for the fleetest steed could not out run these terrified animals.

When it is all over, surprisingly, only one cow was injured and had to be shot. All the rest recovered, animals and men alike, although Lorton says, “women were in some of the wagons & what must have been their feelings.”

Illustration of a Stampede
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William B. Lorton on the Trail

The eminent historian of the American West, Dale Morgan, called The diary of William B. Lorton “the finest Forty-niner diary I have ever laid eyes on.” Having known Dale Morgan many, many, many years ago when I was a student and he was the historian in residence at the Bancroft Library, I don’t need any other recommendation than that.

But until now Lorton’s 1849 journal was unavailable to readers. It stayed in family hands until the 1950s, when Morgan was able to borrow it for the Bancroft Library at UC Berkeley. Later it was donated to the Bancroft and Morgan began on a transcript of the minuscule handwriting in the four small volumes. He intended to publish it but was unable to finish the task before his death in 1971.

The torch was passed to overland trail enthusiasts and historians LeRoy and Jean Johnson. They have completed the monumental task of editing the journals, complete with comprehensive notes, maps, and photographs. They are careful to preserve his idiosyncratic spelling while clarifying his frequent abbreviations.

Lorton liked keeping a diary, and filled his with all those minutiae which bring an age to life. He had a most visit eye for details, and a quick ear too; I have seen no diary which in a comparable way evokes for the modern reader the sound of things on the trail in 1849.

Dale L. Morgan, March 14, 1961

The title of Troubadour on the Road to Gold refers to Lorton’s talent for entertaining his companions around the campfire with popular songs of the day, especially what he called “Negro melodies.” The book is published by the University of Utah Press.

William B. Lorton was a 20-year-old New Yorker who was in Illinois when he heard about gold in California. He made his way to St. Joseph, Missouri, one of the the starting points for wagon trains to California. Here is the description of St. Jo on May 8, 1849:

In a town like St. Jo at the present time, [there is] everything to attract the eye. Boats are now going up to the [Council] bluffs. Our goods are here, & as we have come 100 miles out of our way, wagons are perfectly ram[ed], jamed, cramed, in among the cattle & mules that croud its st[reet]s. Teems are formed in a line by the hundreds, numbered, awaiting their turns to cross the ferry. There is only 2 flat boats, crossing night & day. . . Some have waited 3 weeks for their turn, others have went out on the suburbs & camped almost discouraged. Corn is selling at 50 cts. A great many persons are out of funds, & have to let their cattle nearly starve. (p. 53)

What a ruckus it must have been. More from Mr. Lorton coming soon.

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The “Most Unique” Adventures of John Scott, Black Pioneer

The obituary of John Scott, black pioneer of Tehama County, reads like an adventure novel. I wish I could find more information about him. So far the only two sources are his obituary in the Red Bluff Daily News (May 20, 1916) and an entry in Black Pioneers in Tehama County California History by Grace Alice Brambley Jackson.

John Scott was born into slavery in Virginia in 1815. When he was about 23 years old he escaped and joined a band of Cherokee Indians. He traveled with them on the Cherokee “Trail of Tears” to the Indian Territory in 1838. Using the Indian Territory as his base, he made forays into Tennessee, Kentucky and Missouri to rescue his enslaved brother, sister-in-law and friends, conducting them on the “underground railroad” to Canada.

After about five years of freedom, he was captured. His old owner could not be located, so he was sold to a Lieutenant Hoskins of the U. S. Army. With Hoskins he joined Colonel John C. Fremont’s expedition to California in 1845, which gave him his first sight of Tehama County, where he would later settle. (I could not confirm the names Hoskins or Scott as members of Fremont’s expedition.)

He served with Lt. Hoskins in the Mexican War, in which the lieutenant was killed and Scott was wounded. After the war he was returned to Hoskins’ widow, but he soon ran away from her and from slavery, never to be enslaved again. He joined a wagon train headed for California sometime in the early 1850s.

At first he located at Copper City in Calaveras County. According to his obituary:

Scott discovered a rich gold mine but under the existing laws he could not file on it or claim ownership because of the fact that he was a Negro. Two Copper City gamblers found out about Scott’s discovery, and learning he could not hold the property decided to take it away from him. In the fight that followed the attempt, Scott killed one of the men. At that time and in that place a colored man was merely tolerated at best and when it became known he had killed a while man his life was to say the least, a poor insurance risk, and he immediately left for parts elsewhere. A reward of several thousand dollars was offered for his capture but he was never caught.

After his escape. he spent a few years in Oregon and Utah, then returned to California about 1869 and settled in Tehama County. He married Margaret Bell in 1865, but in the 1880 census of Red Bluff, he is listed as a widower. At that time he was living with his four children: Lillie (18), William (13), and twins Andrew and George (11). His race is given as “Mu” for mulatto. He farmed on property on Reed’s Creek just south of Red Bluff.

Photo courtesy of the African American Museum & Library at Oakland

In his elder years he was known as “Uncle John” Scott. His obituary noted that “locally he was always prominent among the members of his race and has always been accorded a respect amounting almost to reverence by those who knew him best.” His 100th birthday was celebrated with a grand picnic in the oak grove on his property and attended by family and friends, both black and white.

Just imagine the stories the man could tell!

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The First Overland Letter to California

California Spring, by Albert Bierstadt

I thought I knew a lot about the 1841 Bidwell-Bartleson Party — the first group of emigrants to leave the United States on the overland trail. But I didn’t know about the letter carried by Elias Barnett to John Marsh, which is the earliest letter to be carried overland from Missouri to California. I have the Overland Journal of the Oregon-California Trails Association to thank for bringing this to my attention.

When the Bidwell-Bartleson Party left Missouri in May 1841, Elias Barnett was carrying a letter from William B. Barnett and William Hague, merchants of Independence, Missouri. The letter was addressed to John Marsh and began, “you will receive this by the hands of our friends Elias Barnett and Michael Nye whom together with a number of others visits California for the purpose of exploring the country and returning to the United States.” This implies that the men did not come to California with the intention of settling, but instead wanted to explore and scope out the country and report back whether or not it was suitable for American settlement.

They asked John Marsh to inform them about “the government, if they would willingly admit Americans to the rights of citizenship . . . and what would be the reception of an American population by the government of California.” They also desired a report on ” soil, climate, timber, water, productions of the country, etc. etc.” and the “commercial and mercantile and manufacturing advantages” of California.

But it wasn’t John Marsh who fulfilled their request. It was John Bidwell. During his first year in California, he polished up his overland journal and added an extensive report entitled “Observations about the Country.” He describes the trees, the grasses, and vegetables like potatoes and beans. He gives a day-by-day weather report from November 1841, when he arrived, to April 1842 (“2nd. Very fine, strawberries will be ripe in a few days”), and a general description of the summer (“heat is intense”) and fall.

He gives a lengthy report on the “Resources of the Country,” including information about fruit trees, livestock, the missions, the healthy climate (“the fever and ague are seldom known”), water, timber, fish, and birds. He describes houses made of unburnt bricks, and mills run on horse power. It is a country where a little bit of industry might make a man rich. “Wealth here principally consists in horses, cattle, and mules.”

He admired the horsemanship of the Spaniards.

The dexterity with which the Spaniards use the lasso is surprising; in fact, I doubt if their horsemanship is surpassed by the Cossacks of Tartary. It is a common thing for them to take up things from the ground going upon a full run with their horses; they will pick up a dollar this way.They frequently encounter the bear on the plain in this way with their lassos and two holding him in opposite directions with ropes fastened to the pommels of their saddles.

Vaqueros Lassoing a Bear, by James Walker, 1877.

It is not known how Bidwell’s journal was carried back East; possibly it was taken by a returning emigrant like Joseph Chiles, who made a trip back to the States in the summer of 1842. Bidwell said later that he did not intend for it to be published, but published it was, although where or when or by whom is unknown. The only extant copy belonged to George McKinstry, who used it as a guidebook for his 1846 journey to California. That copy is now in the Bancroft Library.

Bidwell’s descriptions of California influenced other would-be emigrants. Zach Montgomery, a friend of John Bidwell’s younger brother Thomas, recalled:

It was by reading this journal of young John Bidwell that the mind and heart of this narrator first became fascinated with California.

in Quest for Flight, by Craig S. Harwood, p. 5

That first overland letter taken to California by Elias Barnett caused John Bidwell to write a description of California, both factual and glowing, that inspired many an emigrant to set out on the trail, even before the news of gold in California reached the States.

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More Vegetables by Stage

When Mrs. B.M. Evoy asked John Bidwell to supply her with fresh vegetables for her boarding house (See “Send a Basket by the Stage”), she wasn’t the only one. As she said in her letter, she heard about this source of produce from Mrs. Myers of Red Bluff — (“please send me such vegetables as you furnish Mrs. Myres.”)

The John Bidwell Papers at the California State Library have several letters from Mr. William Myers. Bidwell was a great saver of letters, which is a boon for historians. Here is one letter requesting vegetables:

Red Bluffs  June 20th / 53

Mr John Bidwell

Dr Sir I Rec’d your note of this morning Requesting me to state wheather the vegetables you send me are the kind that I want or not. I have only to say that the peas & lettice are getting prity hard [?] the cukes particularly I would be glad to get a few more. Turnips the carrots & Beats is very nice tho. Kinds are such as I want and I will leave it with you to judge when thear are Eatable and if a cucumber or two should make its appearance why I should not Refuse. I would be glad if you would send me my Bill by the 25th Instan.

Very respectfully yours Wm. Myers

William Myers was a farmer, but he was concentrating on livestock and wheat. He must not have been growing a big kitchen garden.

The Myers vegetable letters start May 17, 1853 and end on July 5, when Mr. Myers writes that “I Rec’d your note this morning stating that I could not Rec’d any more vegetables on account of the unwillingness of the drivers to take them aboard.” The stage driver didn’t want to be bothered with baskets of vegetables, so that may have been the end of Bidwell’s delivery of produce by stagecoach.

Maybe it’s because I enjoy growing a vegetable garden, but I love these letters about peas and lettuce and turnips and “beats.”

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Mrs. Evoy Leaves Briggsville

Shasta Courier 25 March 1854

Two months after the conviction of Col. John H. Harper for the theft of $1800 in gold from Mrs. Bridget Evoy, she decided to sell the California House in Briggsville. What motivated her to give up running (as it says in the advertisement) “a store and a house of entertainment”?

She had recovered her stolen gold — that was not the problem. But at the age of 62 she had probably grown weary of running a hotel and eatery. The labor involved in such a venture was arduous and unrelenting. Even if she had hired help, it was still up to her to keep food on the table for hungry miners and beds ready for tired travelers.

Mary Jane Megquier, who ran a boarding house in San Francisco, wrote to her sister about her daily round:

I should like to give you an account of my work if I could do it justice. . . In the morning the boy gets up and makes a fire by seven o’clock when I get up and make the coffee, then I make the biscuit, then I fry the potatoes then broil three pounds of steak, and as much liver, while the woman is sweeping, and setting the table, at eight the bell rings and they are eating until nine.

I do not sit until they are nearly all done. I try to keep the food warm and in shape as we put it on in small quantities. After breakfast I bake six loaves of bread (not very big) then four pies, or a pudding, then we have lamb, for which we have paid nine dollars a quarter, beef, and pork, baked, turnips, beets, potatoes, radishes, salad, and that everlasting soup, every day dine at two.

And that was only half the day. There was still beds to be made, laundry to be done, and supper to get. As Mrs. Megquier said, “I am obliged to trot all day and if I have not the constitution of six horses I should have been dead long ago.” Mrs. Evoy could surely have said the same.

The same endless round of chores was described in a song, The Housewife’s Lament, one verse of which says:

It’s sweeping at six and it’s dusting at seven
It’s victuals at eight and it’s dishes at nine.
It’s potting and panning form ten to eleven
We scarce break our fast ere we plan how to dine.

Mrs. Evoy had earned her rest. She sold the California House and went to the little town of Oakland on the San Francisco Bay, where she bought “a 100-acre tract with an existing residence and farm buildings on what was then called Peralta Road (present-day Telegraph Avenue).” (Craig S. Harwood, Quest for Flight, p. 7).

An excellent real estate investment! If only she could see what her farm looks like now.

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