A Fond Heart in Helltown is Waiting

April is poetry month, so who better to give us a poem than our own Bard of Butte and Poet of Helltown, Pres Longley. Here is one that was published in the Oroville Mercury on September 17, 1875.

 “SHE RUNS IN THE COLD”

If the angels don’t want you, my darling,
And think you too saucy and bold—
A fond heart in Helltown is waiting
To take you in out of the cold.

I have beautiful beds in lava,
The mountains are gleaming with gold—
The Modocs have kindly “skeedaddled,”
So darling, come out of the cold.

But I ask not a love that is lukewarm,
The kind that can be bartered and sold,
But give me your heart’s pure devotion
And come to me out of the cold.

Don’t bring me a kiss “paroxysmal,”
If you do I will surely be sold,
And betrayed, a la Henry Ward Beecher—
O, darling, come out of the cold.

I never have seen you, my “Dulci,”
But I’m dreaming, from what has been told
That to me you’d be perfectly splendid—
Then, darling, come out of the cold.

You must be my loving “Bonanza,”
My treasure, untarnished with mould,
And I’ll love you intensely forever—
Then, darling, come out of the cold.

And then we’ll write songs for the nation,
Sweet songs that have never been told,
And thrill all the hearts in creation,
And lift them up out of the cold.

I am not sure why the title “She Runs in the Cold” is in quotation marks. It may have been a catch phrase of the time. Some of the other references are easier to figure out.

The Modoc War by the U.S. Army against the Modoc Indians of northeastern California was much in the news at the time, having taken place in 1872 and 1873.

The term “paroxysmal” indicates a sudden, intense, but intermittent symptom, the opposite of an enduring constancy.

Henry Ward Beecher, according to Wikipedia, “was an American Congregationalist clergyman, social reformer, and speaker, known for his support of the abolition of slavery, his emphasis on God’s love, and his 1875 adultery trial.” It was the latter scandal that Pres had in mind.

“Dulci” is short for Dulcinea, the object of Don Quixote’s idealistic devotion.

“Bonanza” was a popular name for a mine — there was more than one Bonanza Mine in California, including one in Placer County and one in Sonora, Tuolumne County. Millions of dollars in gold were taken out of the one in Sonora.

So remember, “a fond heart in Helltown is waiting.” See if you can find him (or her).

Posted in Pres Longley, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

The Death of General John Bidwell

John Bidwell with his coachman Ruben Messenger at the door of Bidwell Mansion
1897. CSU Chico: sc17331

On the morning of April 4, 1900, John Bidwell set out to mark a new road along Big Chico Creek. Driving the wagon was William Conway, one of his oldest Mechoopda employees. Also in the wagon was Florence Blake, a maid at Bidwell Mansion who came along to open gates and hold the horses while Bidwell showed William the work he wanted done. Florence would later write a statement for Annie Bidwell about her husband’s sudden turn of ill health.

Florence reported that when the General got down from the wagon he stamped his foot and exclaimed, “There! I am as spry as a young boy.” He had always led an active life and he enjoyed nothing more than marking out a new road. Although he had grown portly over the years, at six feet tall and 225 pounds (as weighed on the scale at the flour mill) he was by no means obese.

Another workman, Harry, was burning a stump. Bidwell poked at the fire, gave directions, and did some sawing with William Conway. Florence kept her eyes on the General, worried that as he walked around he might trip over a limb or a stone. Instead, she heard him call her, then sit down on a log “with his head held down as if he had the neuralgia.” He had had these attacks of “neuralgia” before, which were probably not nerve irritation, but minor heart attacks. While Harry went to town for help, Florence and Conway tended to Bidwell, laying him down and loosening his clothing. “As he commenced to rally,” wrote Florence, “he wanted to be propped up and complained of too much weight on his chest though there was nothing there.”

When help arrived he was taken back to the Mansion. Three doctors, including Dr. Oscar Stansbury and Bidwell’s cousin, Dr. Ella Gatchell, were called to attend. For a time, he seemed to improve, but he suffered a relapse and died in his bed at 2:30 p.m.

The news of his sudden and unexpected death spread quickly. Businesses in town immediately began decorating their buildings in mourning as flags were lowered to half-staff and the bells of the city tolled.

CSU Chico sc10643

The funeral was delayed for a week until Annie’s sister and other relatives could arrive from the East Coast. On the day of the funeral the coffin was displayed on the Mansion porch, surrounded by floral tributes. In accordance with Annie’s wishes, and because of the crowds of people wishing to attend, the funeral was conducted from the porch of the Mansion. Businesses closed, children were let out of school, and classes at the Normal School were cancelled.

After prayers, hymns, and eulogies, the funeral procession proceeded to the cemetery. Children scattered flowers along the way. General John Bidwell was laid to rest near the entrance of the cemetery he had set aside 50 years earlier. A large boulder, weighing six or seven tons was brought down from the mountains to serve as a headstone. On it was engraved simply his name: John Bidwell.

CSU Chico sc16949

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Support Bidwell Mansion

California State Parks has launched a number of ways to engage the public in “reimagining” the future of Bidwell Mansion, since the devastating fire that consumed the Mansion in December 2024.

If you are a downtown Farmer’s Market shopper, stop by the Reimagine Bidwell Mansion pop-up booth this Saturday, March 28th. It’s your chance to talk to a real live State Parks employee and express your opinion.

A Virtual Community Workshop will be held on Tuesday, April 14, from 6–7:30 p.m. Register to attend.

The Reimagine Bidwell Mansion webpage also has an Online Public Survey. It takes about 15 minutes to complete and invites feedback on visitor experiences, potential options for the fire-damaged structure, future educational programs, and possible changes to park facilities. The survey will remain open through Friday, April 24.

Keep in contact: At the Reimagine Bidwell Mansion webpage, you can leave your name and email address to receive project updates.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Bret Harte’s Ode to Spring

Painting by William Franklin Jackson

Bret Harte knew how quickly a California spring could turn into a California summer. Enjoy!

California Madrigal (On the Approach of Spring)

Oh, come, my beloved, from thy winter abode,
From thy home on the Yuba, thy ranch overflowed;
For the waters have fallen, the winter has fled,
And the river once more has returned to its bed.

Oh, mark how the spring in its beauty is near!
How the fences and tules once more reappear!
How soft lies the mud on the banks of yon slough
By the hole in the levee the waters broke through!

All nature, dear Chloris, is blooming to greet
The glance of your eye and the tread of your feet;
For the trails are all open, the roads are all free,
And the highwayman’s whistle is heard on the lea.

Again swings the lash on the high mountain trail,
And the pipe of the packer is scenting the gale;
The oath and the jest ringing high o’er the plain,
Where the smut is not always confined to the grain.

Once more glares the sunlight on awning and roof,
Once more the red clay’s pulverized by the hoof,
Once more the dust powders the ‘outsides’ with red,
Once more at the station the whiskey is spread.

Then fly with me, love, ere the summer’s begun,
And the mercury mounts to one hundred and one;
Ere the grass now so green shall be withered and sear,
In the spring that obtains but one month in the year.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

More “Prospective Voters”

The 13th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, ratified in 1865, abolished slavery and involuntary servitude, and the 14th Amendment, ratified in 1868, guaranteed citizenship rights and equal protection of the laws. The 14th Amendment declared that “No State shall make or enforce any law which shall abridge the privileges or immunities of citizens of the United States; nor shall any State deprive any person of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law; nor deny to any person within its jurisdiction the equal protection of the laws.”

And yet these two amendments did not guarantee the right to vote to black citizens. And so in 1869 the 15th Amendment was proposed. It was hotly debated, supported by Republicans and opposed by Democrats. Several variations were proposed, and women’s suffrage groups were eager to include “sex” as one of the voting restrictions that would be banned. In the end, the women were disappointed. The amendment prohibited the federal government or any state from denying or abridging a citizen’s right to vote on the basis of “race, color, or previous condition of servitude.”

This was the guarantee that black men were waiting for. The amendment was certified as duly ratified and part of the Constitution on March 30, 1870. It was widely celebrated, a story that I will come to later this year.

The Elevator newspaper sought out the names of prospective black voters in the lead up to the amendment in 1869. D.D. Carter, husband of journalist Jennie Carter, reported names from the sizable black community in Nevada County. John Scott, prominent black citizen of Tehama County, reported names from Red Bluff, as previously noted.

State by state, The Elevator kept track of the ratification process, the all-important “Progress of Liberty.” Look at the list of states below. Notice what is missing?

California did not ratify the 15th Amendment until 1962! finally catching up with the rest of the country. Of course, the refusal by the California legislature to ratify had no effect once the amendment took effect, and black Californians did obtain the right to vote. But at the time the Democratic governor and legislature, many of whose members came from the southern states, declined to ratify the amendment.

(It should be noted that the southern states that ratified the amendment, either did so because they were still controlled by Radical Reconstruction governments or were required to do so in order to regain representation in Congress. Most of them later enacted the Jim Crow laws that restricted black voting rights until the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s.)

Posted in Black History Month | Leave a comment

“Prospective Voters”

In anticipation of the passage of the 15th Amendment to the Constitution of the United States, The Elevator, a San Francisco newspaper serving the black community, asked its readers in 1869 to identify “colored male adults” in their communities, men who would be qualified to vote when the amendment passed.

These are names sent in for Chico in Butte County and for the town of Tehama in Tehama County.

The Elevator, 12 November 1869

The 15th Amendment was ratified on February 3, 1870, the last of the three Reconstruction Amendments.

I don’t know much about the names on this list. Please comment if you can add anything about any of them. Peter Jackson is listed on the 1870 census of Chico as a barber, age 34, born in New York. Perry Jackson and Edward Holmes are on the next page of the census, as is Joseph Flowers, a laborer, age 48 from Georgia, who is married to Laura and has four children at home.

Josiah Jackson and Benjamin Maulbrie show up on the census, with occupation given as “laborer.” I have seen Josiah Jackson’s name in Bidwell’s ledger as a worker on Bidwell’s new mansion. He was paid $1.50 a day. Here is Josiah Jackson’s name in the Great Register (list of voters for Butte County).

And here is a newspaper item involving Joseph Flowers and his neighbor, Chinese merchant Ah Sun Kee, from the Chico Review Weekly, October 18, 1871.

It’s a relief to know that the “dorg” survived.

Posted in Black History Month, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

John Bidwell Meets Abraham Lincoln

Abraham Lincoln by Mathew Brady 1864

John Bidwell met President Lincoln in 1864 and was greatly impressed.

Bidwell believed whole-heartedly in the Union cause. In 1864 he was a California delegate to the Republican National Convention in Baltimore on June 7-8, where Lincoln was renominated for president. Bidwell was in the delegation sent to the White House to inform Lincoln of his renomination.

Upon his return home, he spoke to the Butte County “Lincoln and Johnson Club” on August 10th, 1864, about his experiences. He was pleased to have met with President Lincoln and gave this description, as reported in the Weekly Butte Record:

While at the Capitol, I had the pleasure of several interviews with the President. I found him to be a man possessed of that great and most precious of all natural gifts, plain common sense. Still he was not exactly the man I had expected to see. I had been told that he was continually inclined to jest, and that he did not appear to appreciate the magnitude of our national troubles. Suffice it to say that much injustice has been done Mr. Lincoln in reference to his personal traits. What are called jokes should in most instances be styled apt illustrations. He is calm, reflective, quite fluent in speech, and evidently feels the weight of the responsibility resting upon him. The more I saw of him the better I was pleased, and the more he looked like a President.

(Weekly Butte Record, 20 August 1864)

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

John Scott, the “Most Unique” Man of Tehama County

Red Bluff Daily News, May 20, 1916

A year after he celebrated his 100th birthday, Black pioneer John Scott died at his home on Reed’s Creek in Tehama County. He had had an adventurous life, although how much of the tales he told were true is impossible to determine.

According to his obituary, John Scott was born into slavery in Virginia in 1815. When he was about 23 years old he escaped and joined a band of Cherokee Indians. He traveled with them on the Cherokee “Trail of Tears” to the Indian Territory in 1838. Using the Indian Territory as his base, he made forays into Tennessee, Kentucky and Missouri to rescue his enslaved brother, sister-in-law and friends, conducting them on the “underground railroad” to Canada.

After about five years of freedom, he was captured. His old owner could not be located, so he was sold to a Lieutenant Hoskins of the U. S. Army. With Hoskins he joined Colonel John C. Fremont’s expedition to California in 1845, which gave him his first sight of Tehama County, where he would later settle. Unfortunately for this thrilling story, there was not a Lt. Hoskins in Fremont’s expedition, nor anyone named Scott.

He claimed to have served with Lt. Hoskins in the Mexican War, in which the lieutenant was killed and Scott was wounded. After the war he was returned to Hoskins’ widow, but he soon ran away from her and from slavery, never to be enslaved again. He came to California in a wagon train along with A. Brearcliff, another Tehama County name, sometime in the early 1850s. “Uncle John” Scott, as he was known, was undoubtedly an entertaining tale-spinner.

At first he located at Copper City in Calaveras County, where he found and lost a gold mine. In about 1859 he settled in Tehama County. He married Margaret Bell in 1865, but in the 1880 census of Red Bluff, he is listed as a widower. At that time he was living with his four children: Lillie (18), William (13), and twins Andrew and George (11). His race is given as “Mu” for mulatto. He farmed on property on Reed’s Creek just south of Red Bluff.

He took an interest in education and voting rights. On his death the newspaper noted that “it was largely through his efforts that colored children were first admitted to the public schools of our county,” although there were other black families equally keen to get their children an education.

In 1869, when The Elevator, a black newspaper in San Francisco, listed “colored male adults” as voters by county, it was John Scott who sent in a list for Red Bluff.

The Elevator, 26 November 1869

His 100th birthday was celebrated with a grand picnic in the oak grove on his property and attended by family and friends, both black and white. The newspaper reported that “the centennial anniversary of his birth was the occasion of a big picnic last June in the oak grove at his home, which was largely attended by his own race of people and many white people as well.”

Posted in Black History Month, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

It’s Gold Discovery Day!

John Sutter needed lumber. He was always building — on his fort, around the fort, up at his farm. He also planned to sell lumber to the settlers who were coming into California in increasing numbers. He needed a sawmill.

In his New Helvetia Diary, where he kept a daily record of events and comings and goings at the fort, John Sutter wrote:

Aug. 27: Made a contract and entered in partnership with Marshall for a sawmill to be built on the [American] fork.

Marshall was a skilled carpenter and wheelwright. He had come to California via Oregon in 1845.

John Bidwell, acting as Sutter’s clerk, wrote out the contract, although he had his doubts about the advisability of the plan. He had inspected the site at Coloma himself, and he thought that the American River canyon was too rocky and narrow for safely rafting lumber downstream to Sutter’s Fort. Later he would write:

I wrote the contract between Sutter and him [Marshall] to build the mill. Sutter was to furnish the means; Marshall was to build and run the mill, and have a share of the lumber for his compensation. His idea was to haul the lumber part way and raft it down the American River to Sacramento, and thence, his part of it  . . . . down to San Francisco for a market. . . . It is hard to conceive how any sane man could have been so wide of the mark, or how anyone could have selected such a site for a sawmill. Surely no other man than Marshall ever entertained so wild a scheme . . . and no other man than Sutter would have been so confiding and credulous as to patronize him.

But in the end it didn’t matter. Marshall hired Indians and soldiers from the Mormon Battalion to get the sawmill built. It was coming along nicely until January 24, 1848, when Jim Marshall found little flecks of gold in the tailrace of the mill.

And the rest is history.

James Marshall standing in front of his sawmill, 1850.
Posted in Gold | Leave a comment

How Much Did It Cost to Build Bidwell Mansion?

Stereo view of Bidwell Mansion, 1868

Let’s take a look back at the early days of Bidwell Mansion, when it was still taking shape and already capturing the attention of curious visitors. Even as construction neared completion, the home’s distinctive architecture and sweeping views were drawing praise from near and far. And everyone was curious about what it cost.

In April of 1868, while John Bidwell was in Washington, D.C., marrying Annie Ellicott Kennedy, a Marysville reporter for the Marysville Daily Appeal came north to take a look at Chico and found it to be “located on a most beautiful site” and “quite a business place,” with twelve to fifteen stores, several hotels, and various shops and livery stables. But mainly, the reporter came to see “the newly erected mansion of General Bidwell.”

Marysville was a much larger town, but it could not boast anything to equal the Bidwell Mansion. The reporter was escorted through the house, from basement to tower, by “P.M. Craig, of San Francisco, foreman of the carpenters’ work,” who amply supplied him with statistics: “The first story is 14 feet, the second, 12 and attic 11 in height, containing in aggregate 54 rooms, including closets and bathrooms. There is in surface about 17,000 feet of flooring,” and so on. It was built in the style of an Italian villa, with double brick walls, “2 feet thick with a 6-inch opening in the center; neatly stuccoed on the outside with the best hard white finish on the inside.”

Putting the finishing touches on the exterior.

The reporter was particularly impressed with the 65-foot-high tower, often referred to as an observatory, “from which is presented the most beautiful of California landscape views.” He could see the Sierras, the Coast Range mountains, “the serpentine courses of the Sacramento and Feather rivers,” and “to the south the famous Sutter Buttes—the Sphinx of California.” Nearer to view was the great ranch of “the Chico farmer.”

He concluded by stating that “the cost of this magnificent residence is estimated to be between fifty and seventy-five thousand dollars.” The reporter’s estimate is not far off. John R. Kennedy, Annie Bidwell’s brother, who was present at the time, told the Chico Enterprise that it cost $56,000. According to the website Measuring Worth, this amount spent on a construction project in 1868 would be equivalent to $22 million today.

Fire reveals brickwork.
Posted in Bidwell Mansion | Leave a comment