The First House in Chico

Barham home, 529 Main Street.

In October 1860 John Bidwell acquired title to “Potter’s Half-League,” a portion of Rancho de Farwell situated on the south bank of Chico Creek. That same year he had finally had his title to Rancho Chico on the north side of the creek confirmed, and now he owned land on the south side too. It was just what he needed to carry out his plans to create a town. He didn’t hesitate. On December 5th, 1860, he filed the plan for the town of Chico at the courthouse in Oroville.

As his ranch operations had grown, more and more employees were living on the ranch, clustered around ranch headquarters and his residence (pre-mansion). Bidwell’s plan was to create a town — a place for shops and businesses and churches, and most of all, houses — and move everybody off his ranch.

The Barham family lived just behind the mill, on the east side of the Shasta-Marysville Road (now The Esplanade). In 1918, Mrs. Arabella Barham recalled those days:

You see it was this way. General Bidwell away back in ’61 and ’62 was very anxious to have a town started here. He had built up quite a little settlement on the north side of Big Chico Creek but there was nothing on this side. There were numerous houses there including the hotel, the barns, blacksmith shops and a lot of other adobe shacks. The mill was there and we lived just back of it. My husband sold the grain and flour for Bidwell and was quite intimate with him. One day Bidwell said to my husband, “John, if you will go across the creek and build a home for yourself and wife I’ll give you a lot free.”

Arabella was not keen on the idea.

John came and told me about it and I felt just then as though I didn’t want to be starting a town for anybody and was perfectly satisfied to stay where I was.

She thought about the expense of building with lumber and the effort of hauling the lumber from Hupp’s sawmill in the mountains. Why go to all that work when they already had a house? But Bidwell was determined.

Bidwell kept after John, however, and finally he consented. The house is the one we live in and still stands on Main Street near Fifth, and all the original lumber is in it. My husband and a one-horse carpenter named Manser did the work. The house was completed in April 1862 and we moved in. It was the only house in the present site of where Chico now stands, at that time.

John J. Barham and Arabella Clark Barham with their granddaughter Lillias Boyle, circa 1900.

House building in those days was some task. Such a thing as millwork in lumber was unknown. All of the timbers which went into our house came down from the mills as rough as could be. Such a thing as a planing mill was unknown and in consequence, every piece of lumber and every board that needed a smooth surface was submitted to a hand planing by the carpenters.

The Barham property stretched along Fifth Street from Main to Wall Street. The house address was 529 Main Street. In 1960 the house was moved to the Silver Dollar Fairgrounds — does anyone know what became of it there? — and the site was turned into a parking lot for the Senator Theater.

Sources: Chico Enterprise-Record, January 3, 1918 and July 12, 1960. Photographs: Northeastern California Historical Photograph Collection, Meriam Library. California State University, Chico.

More about the early growth of Chico next time.

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Looking at Ledgers

Yesterday I went to the California State Library in Sacramento to look at a variety of Rancho Chico ledgers. I had no idea that there were so many! I only wanted ledgers from 1865-1868 because I wanted to see if I could find anything that related to the building of Bidwell Mansion. They gave me eight huge heavy ledgers on a cart, and another eight smaller day books from the Bidwell store.

I don’t have a good grasp of the difference between blotters, day books, ledgers, and journals (in the bookkeeping sense). And John Bidwell was running a large enterprise, with income and expenses from the flour mill, the lumber company, the Chico & Humboldt Wagon Road, and various aspects of the ranch — livestock, dairy, orchards, etc. It was tricky for me to get my head around.

The most useful one for my purpose was the one you see at the top of the page, Journal F, which listed transactions from September 1863 to December 1867. Expenses for the building of Bidwell Mansion were listed as “New Residence.” It’s going to take me quite a while to go through the photos I took and analyze the data. Here is just one–

On July 7, 1865, Bidwell spent $2.50 for 2 yards of wire cloth for the Mansion from Baker & Hamilton, a supplier of hardware in Sacramento and San Francisco.

Toward the end of the day I went back to the store blotters. They didn’t have anything to do with my project, so I had set them aside at first, but I find it so fascinating to see what people were buying in the 1860s and how much things cost. For instance, eggs were selling for 25 cents a dozen. I could look at those books all day. Finally my daughter had to drag me away so that we could get going on the freeway before rush hour traffic set it.

Just for instance– here we have Major Hancock buying a chopping axe for $2, a Chinese man named Ah Jake stocking up on rice, brandy, and matches, and getting a pair of overalls and 2 pairs of socks, and a Mrs. Marriott doing her daily shopping for coffee, tea, nutmeg, candles, matches, and beans and spending a total of $3.88. I don’t know who any of these people are, but they were living in Chico one hundred and sixty years ago.

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A Walk Around Bidwell Mansion

Crews have been at work cleaning up the exterior debris from the fire at Bidwell Mansion. With the scaffolding gone and the collapsed veranda cleared away, you can get a better look at the ruined structure. It’s a heart-breaking sight.

I took a walk around the perimeter, outside the tall metal fence. The photographs were taken through the fence, between the bars. Once the clean-up is completed, engineers will go in to assess the condition of the structure and determine whether it can be saved or rebuilt.

Sometime in the near future, perhaps in August, State Parks will hold the first public meeting to get input on the future of Bidwell Mansion State Historic Park. When I know that date and place, I’ll announce it here and on Facebook. Recovery will be a long process, and if you have an interest in what happens to our Chico icon, plan on coming to the meeting.

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Fourth of July Parade

The Bidwell Mansion Association and friends gathered in costume to celebrate the 4th at the downtown Chico 4th of July Parade. “John and Annie” were given a classy ride in a beautiful 1920 Studebaker sedan generously provided by Jen and Ethan from Placerville. The rest of us walked.

State Parks guide Quinn Neves came with his reenactment buddies all dressed as mid-19th century gentlemen.

The Parade had singers, dancers, first responders, activists, volunteers from all kinds of great civic organizations, and us — keeping the legacy of Bidwell Mansion alive.

The next two photos were posted to Awesome People of Chico by Jason Sands. Thanks for snapping us!

See you next year!

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A Chico 4th of July — 150 Years Ago

Our celebrations of Independence Day are skimpy compared to the way they enjoyed the Fourth in Chico in 1875. It was a full day of celebration, as promoted in the Chico Record on July 3rd. (The celebration took place of the 5th, since the 4th fell on a Sunday. Many of the days activities would be considered inappropriate for the Sabbath.)

The day began with the ringing of bells at 4 a.m. (!) followed by a “National Salute,” which probably meant the firing of guns, cannons, and anvils at sunrise. (If you want more about anvil-firing click here.) Next was a “Grand Procession” or parade at 10 A.M. “and the usual ceremonies of the day in the Forenoon,” which took place at the Pavilion.

“The ceremonies at the Pavilion, under the direction of the President of the Day, Hon. John Bidwell, who seemed to be as happy as the occasion required, passed off with enthusiasm,” reported the Chico Record. These ceremonies consisted of songs by a choir, prayer, the reading of the Declaration of Independence, a patriotic poem, an oration by E.J. Lewis of Tehama, and more music. “At the conclusion of these exercises, the vast audience, which filled the Pavilion and over-flowed into the square and streets surrounding the building, were dismissed to be “free and independent” as of right they ought to be.”

Butte Record 3 July 1875

The parade was led by Church, Jones & Beebe’s Brass Band, the Chico Guard under Captain Turner, Brigadier General George Cadwalader and his staff, who happened to be visiting, the president (Bidwell) and officers of the day in carriages, the town council, and the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.

These dignitaries were followed by a company of firemen, the Order of Good Templars, representatives of various trades and skills, public schools, the Grange and “Lady Grangers in carriages,” and “Citizens in Carriages and on foot.” As the parade proceeded, they were joined by school children representing the states and the “Goddess of Liberty and Justice” on wagons or floats.

Here is the route taken by the parade, quite a lengthy one for a small town:

A balloon ascension had been announced for the afternoon, but that turned out to be a flop. It “persistently refused to be filled with the means at hand to supply it with gas.” A smaller balloon was attempted, but it also could not be elevated. It caught fire and burned. “The good-natured crowd that assembled to see it go up cheered quite as lustily when it burned up, and sought other diversions.”

At 5 o’clock the Chico Guard assembled and “at the order ‘fall in,’ fifty-seven muskets made their appearance. Captain took the boys in hand and put them through their various evolutions, marching and counter-marching, the manual of arms, etc.” General Cadwalader was pleased by the display.

The day ended with fireworks on the plaza, where “the crowd thronged and surged throughout the whole Pavilion block, down Broadway and along Fourth, Fifth, and Main Streets.” (Chico Weekly Enterprise, 9 July 1975). The fireworks were followed by a “Grand Anniversary Ball” in the Pavilion, the “grandest affair of the year.”

If you are wondering about the Pavilion, it was a community hall located on Broadway between 4th and 5th Streets. I can’t find a photo of it, but here it is depicted on the 1871 bird’s-eye map of Chico. It was replaced by a new pavilion in 1878.

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Black Bart in Butte County

On this date — June 21 — in 1879 the notorious stage robber Black Bart held up a stage coach near Forbestown in Butte County. It was his first robbery in the year 1879 and his ninth robbery since he began his career in 1875. This incident would be followed by two more robberies in October in Shasta County. He generally committed his crimes in the summer and fall, and then retired to San Francisco to live off his ill-gotten gains over the winter.

Here is the notice from the Chico Weekly Enterprise reporting that robbery. No name is given the robber and according to the report, he didn’t get much from the robbery.

Chico Weekly Enterprise 27 June 1879

The Sacramento Daily Union picked up the story:

Sacramento Daily Union 23 June 1879

Of all the stagecoach robbers in California history — and there were many — Black Bart is the name that still holds a place in the minds of the public. Why does he remain the most famous hold-up artist in California history?

One reason is the length of his career. He committed 28 robberies and eluded capture for eight years. That’s a long time in a chancy business.

Another reason is his choice of pseudonym and his penchant for advertising himself by leaving notes in verse at the scene of the crime.

His real name was Charles Boles, but “Black Bart”, a name he seems to have picked out of thin air, sticks in the memory. His verse was crude, but it caught the public’s attention, especially when he signed himself as “Black Bart, the Po-8.”

It also helped that he was a “gentleman bandit.” He was never cruel or vicious. He didn’t molest women. He didn’t murder stagecoach drivers or passengers. He politely asked the driver to “Please throw down the box” while holding a shotgun that he would later claim wasn’t even loaded.

For eight years, from July 1875 to to November 1883, “Bart” got away with it. Wells Fargo detectives and county sheriffs couldn’t catch him. A left-behind handkerchief with a laundry mark was his undoing. Black Bart was finally captured and sent to San Quentin prison in November 1883. He spent five years in prison and disappeared from public notice after his release in 1888.

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Bidwell Mansion: The Stories We Share

The Chico History Museum has a special exhibit featuring memorabilia from Bidwell Mansion. Gathered and saved by community members, the items in the exhibit reflect on what the Mansion has meant to Chico over the years. The exhibit will only be there during the month of June, so catch it before it’s gone. The museum is open 11-4 Thursday through Sunday.

Children’s artwork, family photos, architectural elements, scale models, books and photos are all on display. Here are a few of the items of Bidwelliana you can enjoy.

Plus you can purchase this cool t-shirt!

Come to the Chico History Museum and celebrate the legacy of Bidwell Mansion. Don’t miss it!

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Sacramento Book Festival

If you like books, this is the place to be next Saturday. Peruse books, meet authors, and enjoy a bookish day in Sacramento. I’ll be there with my books, so I hope I’ll see you.

The festival is sponsored by the Sacramento Branch of the California Writers Club and features an impressive list of authors in all genres and for all ages. See their list of authors here. There will also be plenty of yummy food from a variety of food trucks. Something for everyone!

The event is easy to get to. McKinley Park is just off Hwy. 80 between H and E Streets. There is parking at the park and on the street.

If you need more information, take a look at their webpage. Everything you need to know is there. See you soon!

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The Ten Commandments According to Hugh Trevor-Roper

Hugh Trevor-Roper (1914-2003) was a British historian best known as the author of The Last Days of Hitler (1947). He wrote extensively on Nazi Germany and on England in the 16th and 17th centuries. His Ten Commandments for History Writers is lengthy, but well worth studying and taking to heart. It is written in the English of the King James Version of the Bible, which he handles accurately and admirably. For those of you in the TL:DR crowd, I’ll summarize by saying that he stresses writing in an orderly manner, with clarity and precision, and always keeping the needs of the reader in mind.

I particularly like commandments eight and nine: visualize your metaphors and listen to the sound of your words. Reading your work aloud is always helpful.

1. Thou shalt know thine own argument and cleave fast to it, and shalt not digress nor deviate from it without the knowledge and consent of the reader, whom at all times thou shalt lead at a pace which he can follow and by a route which is made clear to him as he goeth.

2. Thou shalt respect the autonomy of the paragraph, as commanded by the authority and example of the prophet Edward Gibbon, for it is the essential unit in the chain of argument. Therefore thou shalt keep it pure and self-contained, each paragraph having within it a single central point to which all other observations in it shall be exactly subordinated by the proper use of the particles and inflections given to us for this purpose.

3. Thou shalt aim always at clarity of exposition, to which all other literary aims shall be subordinated, remembering the words of the prophet commandant Black, “clarté prime, longueur secondaire.” [clarity is primary, length secondary] To this end thou shalt strive that no sentence be syntactically capable of any unintended meaning, and that no reader be obliged to read any sentence twice to be sure of its true meaning. To this end also thou shalt not fear to repeat thyself, if clarity require it, nor to state facts which thou thinkest as well known to others as to thyself, for it is better to remind the learned than to leave the unlearned in perplexity.

4. Thou shalt keep the structure of thy sentences clear, preferring short sentences to long and simple structures to complex, lest the reader lose his way in a labyrinth of subordinate clauses; and, in particular, thou shalt not enclose one relative clause in another, for this both betrays crudity of expression and is a fertile source of ambiguity.

5. Thou shalt preserve the unities of time and place, as commended by the High Priest Nicholas Boileau, placing thyself, in imagination, in one time and place, and distinguishing all others to which thou mayest refer by a proper use of tenses and other forms of speech devised for this purpose; for unless we exploit the distinction between past and pluperfect tenses, and between imperfect and future conditional, we cannot attain perfect limpidity of style and argument.

6. Thou shalt not despise the subjunctive mood, a useful, subtle and graceful mood, blessed by Erasmus and venerated by George Moore, though cursed and anathematised by the Holy Inquisition, Pravda, and the late Lord Beaverbrook.

7. Thou shalt always proceed in an orderly fashion, according to the rules of right reason; as, from the general to the particular when a generality is to be illustrated, but from the particular to the general when a generality is to be proved.

8. Thou shalt see what thou writest; and therefore thou shalt not mix thy metaphors. For a mixed metaphor is proof that the image therein contained has not been seen with the inner eye, and therefore such a metaphor is not a true metaphor, created by the active eye of imagination, but stale jargon drawn up from the stagnant sump of common-place.

9. Thou shalt also hear what thou writest, with thine inner ear, so that no outer ear may be offended by jarring syllables or unmelodious rhythm; remembering therein with piety, though not striving to imitate, the routines of Sir Thomas Browne and the clausulae of Cicero.

10. Thou shalt carefully expunge from thy writing all consciously written purple passages, lest they rise up to shame thee in thine old age. [This is otherwise known as “kill your darlings.”]

(Lord Dacre of Glanton [Hugh Trevor-Roper], 1914-2003; historian – Christ Church College, Oxford, 1946-57; and Regius Professor of History and Fellow of Oriel College, Oxford, 1957-80; Master of Peterhouse, Cambridge, 1980-87)

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The Historian’s Ten Commandments

I was listening to a podcast from This American Life (April 20) about the Ten Commandments in today’s world. The host, Ira Glass, began the story with examples of other versions of the ten commandments that people have come up with, such as The Miner’s Ten Commandments. Someday it would be fun to write about those.

He mentioned the ten commandments for history writers, and as an amateur historian, I thought I should find out what those are. More than one version is out there — the first one I found is by William B. Hesseltine (1902-1963), a noted American historian who taught at the University of Wisconsin. In my online search, I didn’t find his original ten, but I found a “revised and enlarged” version.

1. Thou shalt not use the passive voice.

2. Thou shalt not use the present voice.

3. Thou shalt not quote anything thou canst say better thyself. Thou shalt not quote to carry thy story. Thou shalt, in short, quote only to season thy story.

4. Thou shalt not pass judgments on mankind in general nor shalt thou pardon anyone for anything.

5. Thou shalt cite material to the standard source.

6. Thou shalt combine footnotes whenever possible.

7. Thou shalt strike thy reader hard with thy first sentence.

8. Thou shalt not use slang–nor split thy infinitives.

9. Thou shalt not use the first or second personal pronoun either explicitly or implicitly.

10. Thou shalt not use the rhetorical question to avoid an intelligent transition.

Someone added these next six commandments, which are helpful, but wordy and too specific. I like the first ten for their concision. Here are the rest of them anyway.

11. Thou shalt set down things as they happen; thou shalt have no references later in time than the subject thou art dealing with.

12. Thou shalt be neither a no-er nor a not-er–i.e., thou shalt avoid negations whenever possible.

13. Thou shalt never use THIS for THE, nor THE for A.

14. Thou shalt never spell MEDIEVAL or RENAISSANCE incorrectly.

15. Thou shalt always capitalize Middle Ages, Renaissance, and Crusades when such terms refer to a specific historical period.

16. Thou shalt never capitalize medieval or renaissance when they are used as adjectives; neither shalt thou capitalize the names of centuries.

Which of these commandments am I guilty of breaking? #1 — It’s easy to fall into the passive voice as a way of sidestepping responsibility. #3 — I am editing a book with many violations of this commandment (i.e.; far too many quotations) so my job is to work them into the narrative. #10 — See how I started this paragraph with a rhetorical question? Probably shouldn’t do that.

I like #7. I am not by nature a hard-hitting writer so I’ll keep this in mind. I went looking through some history books on my shelf for a great first sentence. Here is Jon Meacham in And There Was Light: Abraham Lincoln and the American Struggle: “The storm had come from the south.” That’s from the prologue (p. xvii). Chapter One begins: “The roads were rough, the conversation unusual.” (p. 5) Those are sentences, short and punchy, that pull the reader in.

Next time: The Ten Commandments of historian Hugh Trevor-Roper

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