The First Overland Letter to California

California Spring, by Albert Bierstadt

I thought I knew a lot about the 1841 Bidwell-Bartleson Party — the first group of emigrants to leave the United States on the overland trail. But I didn’t know about the letter carried by Elias Barnett to John Marsh, which is the earliest letter to be carried overland from Missouri to California. I have the Overland Journal of the Oregon-California Trails Association to thank for bringing this to my attention.

When the Bidwell-Bartleson Party left Missouri in May 1841, Elias Barnett was carrying a letter from William B. Barnett and William Hague, merchants of Independence, Missouri. The letter was addressed to John Marsh and began, “you will receive this by the hands of our friends Elias Barnett and Michael Nye whom together with a number of others visits California for the purpose of exploring the country and returning to the United States.” This implies that the men did not come to California with the intention of settling, but instead wanted to explore and scope out the country and report back whether or not it was suitable for American settlement.

They asked John Marsh to inform them about “the government, if they would willingly admit Americans to the rights of citizenship . . . and what would be the reception of an American population by the government of California.” They also desired a report on ” soil, climate, timber, water, productions of the country, etc. etc.” and the “commercial and mercantile and manufacturing advantages” of California.

But it wasn’t John Marsh who fulfilled their request. It was John Bidwell. During his first year in California, he polished up his overland journal and added an extensive report entitled “Observations about the Country.” He describes the trees, the grasses, and vegetables like potatoes and beans. He gives a day-by-day weather report from November 1841, when he arrived, to April 1842 (“2nd. Very fine, strawberries will be ripe in a few days”), and a general description of the summer (“heat is intense”) and fall.

He gives a lengthy report on the “Resources of the Country,” including information about fruit trees, livestock, the missions, the healthy climate (“the fever and ague are seldom known”), water, timber, fish, and birds. He describes houses made of unburnt bricks, and mills run on horse power. It is a country where a little bit of industry might make a man rich. “Wealth here principally consists in horses, cattle, and mules.”

He admired the horsemanship of the Spaniards.

The dexterity with which the Spaniards use the lasso is surprising; in fact, I doubt if their horsemanship is surpassed by the Cossacks of Tartary. It is a common thing for them to take up things from the ground going upon a full run with their horses; they will pick up a dollar this way.They frequently encounter the bear on the plain in this way with their lassos and two holding him in opposite directions with ropes fastened to the pommels of their saddles.

Vaqueros Lassoing a Bear, by James Walker, 1877.

It is not known how Bidwell’s journal was carried back East; possibly it was taken by a returning emigrant like Joseph Chiles, who made a trip back to the States in the summer of 1842. Bidwell said later that he did not intend for it to be published, but published it was, although where or when or by whom is unknown. The only extant copy belonged to George McKinstry, who used it as a guidebook for his 1846 journey to California. That copy is now in the Bancroft Library.

Bidwell’s descriptions of California influenced other would-be emigrants. Zach Montgomery, a friend of John Bidwell’s younger brother Thomas, recalled:

It was by reading this journal of young John Bidwell that the mind and heart of this narrator first became fascinated with California.

in Quest for Flight, by Craig S. Harwood, p. 5

That first overland letter taken to California by Elias Barnett caused John Bidwell to write a description of California, both factual and glowing, that inspired many an emigrant to set out on the trail, even before the news of gold in California reached the States.

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More Vegetables by Stage

When Mrs. B.M. Evoy asked John Bidwell to supply her with fresh vegetables for her boarding house (See “Send a Basket by the Stage”), she wasn’t the only one. As she said in her letter, she heard about this source of produce from Mrs. Myers of Red Bluff — (“please send me such vegetables as you furnish Mrs. Myres.”)

The John Bidwell Papers at the California State Library have several letters from Mr. William Myers. Bidwell was a great saver of letters, which is a boon for historians. Here is one letter requesting vegetables:

Red Bluffs  June 20th / 53

Mr John Bidwell

Dr Sir I Rec’d your note of this morning Requesting me to state wheather the vegetables you send me are the kind that I want or not. I have only to say that the peas & lettice are getting prity hard [?] the cukes particularly I would be glad to get a few more. Turnips the carrots & Beats is very nice tho. Kinds are such as I want and I will leave it with you to judge when thear are Eatable and if a cucumber or two should make its appearance why I should not Refuse. I would be glad if you would send me my Bill by the 25th Instan.

Very respectfully yours Wm. Myers

William Myers was a farmer, but he was concentrating on livestock and wheat. He must not have been growing a big kitchen garden.

The Myers vegetable letters start May 17, 1853 and end on July 5, when Mr. Myers writes that “I Rec’d your note this morning stating that I could not Rec’d any more vegetables on account of the unwillingness of the drivers to take them aboard.” The stage driver didn’t want to be bothered with baskets of vegetables, so that may have been the end of Bidwell’s delivery of produce by stagecoach.

Maybe it’s because I enjoy growing a vegetable garden, but I love these letters about peas and lettuce and turnips and “beats.”

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Mrs. Evoy Leaves Briggsville

Shasta Courier 25 March 1854

Two months after the conviction of Col. John H. Harper for the theft of $1800 in gold from Mrs. Bridget Evoy, she decided to sell the California House in Briggsville. What motivated her to give up running (as it says in the advertisement) “a store and a house of entertainment”?

She had recovered her stolen gold — that was not the problem. But at the age of 62 she had probably grown weary of running a hotel and eatery. The labor involved in such a venture was arduous and unrelenting. Even if she had hired help, it was still up to her to keep food on the table for hungry miners and beds ready for tired travelers.

Mary Jane Megquier, who ran a boarding house in San Francisco, wrote to her sister about her daily round:

I should like to give you an account of my work if I could do it justice. . . In the morning the boy gets up and makes a fire by seven o’clock when I get up and make the coffee, then I make the biscuit, then I fry the potatoes then broil three pounds of steak, and as much liver, while the woman is sweeping, and setting the table, at eight the bell rings and they are eating until nine.

I do not sit until they are nearly all done. I try to keep the food warm and in shape as we put it on in small quantities. After breakfast I bake six loaves of bread (not very big) then four pies, or a pudding, then we have lamb, for which we have paid nine dollars a quarter, beef, and pork, baked, turnips, beets, potatoes, radishes, salad, and that everlasting soup, every day dine at two.

And that was only half the day. There was still beds to be made, laundry to be done, and supper to get. As Mrs. Megquier said, “I am obliged to trot all day and if I have not the constitution of six horses I should have been dead long ago.” Mrs. Evoy could surely have said the same.

The same endless round of chores was described in a song, The Housewife’s Lament, one verse of which says:

It’s sweeping at six and it’s dusting at seven
It’s victuals at eight and it’s dishes at nine.
It’s potting and panning form ten to eleven
We scarce break our fast ere we plan how to dine.

Mrs. Evoy had earned her rest. She sold the California House and went to the little town of Oakland on the San Francisco Bay, where she bought “a 100-acre tract with an existing residence and farm buildings on what was then called Peralta Road (present-day Telegraph Avenue).” (Craig S. Harwood, Quest for Flight, p. 7).

An excellent real estate investment! If only she could see what her farm looks like now.

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Who Robbed Mrs. Evoy?

Colonel John H. Harper was convicted of the crime of robbery against Mrs. B.M. Evoy on the stage near Neal’s Ranch in Butte County in May 1853. He was sentenced to seven years imprisonment, but was pardoned by the governor after two years and then disappeared to Nicaragua.

All along he maintained his innocence, but since her $1800 worth of gold was found in his cloak, that evidence convinced the jury.

But was he really guilty?

More than thirty years went by, and then an item appeared in the Weekly Butte Record, reprinted from the Shasta Democrat. “Early settlers”, they said, might recall the robbery of Mrs. Evoy on the stagecoach near Neal’s Ranch, “for which robbery Colonel J.H. Harper was tried, convicted, and sentenced to State Prison.”

Some years ago Judge J.P. Haynes of the then Eighth Judicial District sentenced a man at Crescent City to the State Prison. After receiving his sentence, the prisoner sent for Judge Haynes and acknowledged to him about as follows:

“I was a passenger in the stage with Colonel Harper and several others when the woman was robbed. When she discovered her loss, and the money could not be found in the stage, Colonel Harper proposed that ever [sic] person be searched. We all stepped out and I went up close to the Colonel, who had on a cloak, I dropped the purse and money into one of his pockets, where it was found, and of course he was deemed the guilty one and convicted, though innocent. While I, the guilty one, escaped. You can rely on what I tell you, Judge, for it is true.”

Weekly Butte Record 19 March 1887

It was a passenger named Cummings who found the gold in Harper’s pocket. Although the man is not named in this article, it would seem to be Cummings again, who had continued a life of crime. If his story was true, it exonerates poor unjustly accused Col. Harper.

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The Trial of Colonel Harper

After being arrested for the theft of Mrs. Evoy’s gold, Col. John H. Harper of Trinity County languished in the Hamilton (Butte County) jail for the next six months. He was unable to raise the bail, which was set at $7000, an enormous amount. All along he insisted on his innocence and said that Cummings must have planted the gold on him. He was nearly lynched by a mob incensed that a man could so heartlessly rob an old lady.

While he awaited trial he desperately tried to get character witnesses to come forward to attest to his good reputation and to the fact that he had been traveling with his own money upon him, but no one came forward by the time the trial was held in December 1853. The judge was J.W. McCorkle.

On 31 December 1853, the Weekly Butte Record reported Mrs. Evoy’s testimony:

The principal witness, Mrs. Evoy, says that he paid such particular attention to her and her satchel in which the gold dust was deposited that her suspicions were aroused, and when at the Dry Creek House w[h]ere the money was first missed she fastened the guilt upon Harper, there being but one other passenger in the stage of whom she had no suspicion. On their return to Neal’s Ranch a search was proposed, to which Harper slightly objected. The other passenger whose name is Cummings was willing to be searched and when the search was made, the bags containing the gold dust was found on the person of Harper, or in the pocket of his cloak. This was so palpable that all were satisfied of his guilt, and when no hope was left him he sank back and exclaimed I am ruined!

Col. Harper’s lawyer had little to offer in his defense. He referred to his distinguished career and begged the mercy of the jury to save his client from “ignominy and shame.” Then Col. Harper stood up and delivered a lengthy and heartfelt speech in his own defense.

His appeals were most eloquent, and brought tears to the eyes of many who listened !o him He seemed perfectly free from embarrassment during the delivery of his speech. He remarked that he stood alone, without friends, money, or influence. It would be a heart of stone that would not deeply sympathise with the prisoner when he alluded to his aged father and pious mother, under whose holy precepts and examples he had been nurtured and prayerfully admonished against the commission of evil deeds. . . .

In conclusion he appealed to the God that made him, and swore by high Heaven, by the earth beneath that as he loved the mother that bore him, that he hoped that he and his might be racked by pain and torture, that Heaven might shut them out that the earth might deny him a resting place, if he was not innocent of the charge. Breathless silence prevailed as he made this last appeal, and his last struggle for liberty commending himself to the mercy of the Jury and to God the friend of the lonely.

Shasta Courier 7 January 1854

This eloquent appeal touched the hearts of many, including the editor of the Butte Record. Nevertheless, the jury quickly returned a verdict of guilty and Col. Harper was sentenced to seven years in the penitentiary.

He serve two years of his sentence and then was pardoned by Governor Bigler. He wasted no time in boarding a steamship for Nicaragua. According to Mansfield’s History of Butte County, He there became “a commander of rebel forces in a Nicaraguan rebellion.” (Mansfield, p. 154) If so, he took part in William Walker’s Filibuster War in Central America.

Shasta Courier 29 December 1855

Next time: Did he do it?

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Mrs. Evoy Robbed

Shasta Courier 21 May 1853

On Wednesday, May 25, 1853, Mrs. Bridget M. Evoy was traveling by Hall & Crandall stagecoach from Shasta to Marysville. When the stage stopped at Dry Creek House she discovered that the gold she was carrying in a carpetbag was missing.

This was no small amount of gold dust. She had $1800 in two purses and both were missing. This is the equivalent of $51,800 today.

Although Mrs. Evoy was described by the Shasta Courier as “an old lady of about 70 years of age,” she was no frail and vulnerable female. She was a 61-year-old widow, long accustomed to faring for herself. and a shrewd businesswoman. At the age of 58 she led her family to California, riding horseback from St. Louis, Missouri. By 1853 she owned property in Marysville, Yuba City, and the mining community of Briggsville in Shasta County, where she ran a boarding house.

She had just sold a piece of real estate in Briggsville, and was taking the proceeds, together with money earned from running “California House,” to the bank in Marysville.

According to an article in the Shasta Courier, when she discovered her loss, she immediately informed the other passengers. Among the passengers were two men, Colonel John H. Harper, a former state senator from Trinity, and a man named Cummings. The the northbound stage arrived and all the passengers got out to be searched.

One of the passengers, Colonel Harper of Trinity, threw off his cloak at once, and requested that he might be searched. Another passenger [Cummings] immediately picked up the cloak, and took out of the side pocket a purse of gold with the name of the lady marked on it. On further search they found another purse in his coat pocket containing upwards of a thousand dollars.

The stagecoach returned to Neal’s Ranch, and the next day Col. Harper had a hearing before Justice Thomas S. Wright and was detained in the Hamilton jail to await trial.

To give you an idea where these places are located, Neal’s Ranch was about 10 miles south of Rancho Chico. Neal Road and the landfill are located there today. Dry Creek House was located ten miles south of Neal’s Ranch, about where Sohnrey’s Family Foods is located today on Hwy. 99.

Next time: The Trial of Col. Harper

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“Send a Basket by the Stage”

Mrs. Bridget M. Evoy was an enterprising woman of the Gold Rush. She came to California with her family on the Lassen Trail in 1849. She earned her gold by successfully running a hotel or boarding house called the “California House” in Briggsville.

Briggsville has completely disappeared into the dust of time, but it was located near the flourishing mining town of Shasta in Shasta County. Mrs. Evoy appears on the 1852 California census. She gave her age as 46 years old. But her tombstone says she was born in 1791 in County Wexford, Ireland, so in 1852 she was at least 60 years old. But why should a lady have to answer an intrusive question like that?

I learned about Mrs. Evoy from a descendant of hers, Mr. Craig Harwood, who contacted me in the hope that I could help him to find out more about the family’s experience coming to California. I can’t say that I was much help, but we did find that we each had a tidbit of information about Mrs. Evoy and her connection to John Bidwell.

On June 11th, 1853 Mrs. Evoy wrote to Bidwell asking him to send her a basket of vegetables.

John Bidwell Papers, California State Library

Major Bidwell– Sir I send a basket by the stage driver and you will please send me such vegetables as you furnish Mrs. Myres, and also on the same terms, or I will settle with you when I go down. Respectfully yours, B.M. Evoy

Fresh vegetables were not easy to come by in Gold Rush California, but Major Bidwell had a thriving garden. In the back of an old ledger he kept a record of what was planted when for the year 1853. In April and May he (or his crew) had planted peas, onions, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, parsnips, cucumbers, beets, corn and melons. There is even an entry for one of his best customers, Mrs. B.M. Evoy.

California State Library

Prompt service, as you can see. She wrote her letter on the 11th and sent it with the stage driver. On the 12th, 18 pounds of assorted vegetables and 9 pounds of peas were on their way back to her. It looks like peas were 20 cents a pound, which sounds cheap enough now but was probably high for the time. All prices in California were high.

I hope the miners she cooked for appreciated the fine fresh vegetables she served.

Next time: Mrs. Evoy’s adventure on the stagecoach

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Sierra or Sierras? You Decide

A painting that looks like a photo, The Sierra Nevada from the Head of the Carson River, by Albert Bierstadt

I had to sympathize with the writer of this item on SFGate about the argument over whether to say “the Sierra” or “the Sierras” when referring to the mountain range between California and Nevada. (SFGate is the online media outlet of the San Francisco Chronicle.) The author, Freda Moon, is a travel journalist who wrote “a breezy little story” about traveling from the Bay Area to Lake Tahoe in which she referred to the mountains as “the Sierras.”

Like you do. But a number of readers took her to task, and not all of them were polite about it.

It’s a question I have wondered about myself. When writing a book or a blog post about pioneers coming over the mountains into California, I have puzzled over how to refer to the mountains. Is it simply Sierra Nevada? Is calling them the Sierras okay? Since I often write for children, should I clarify by writing “the Sierra Nevada range” or “the Sierra Nevada mountains”? Even though that is redundant? Do kids know what a “range” is in this context? ‘Tis a puzzlement.

The word “sierra” in Spanish is already plural and means a range or chain of mountains. No need to add an “s”. Ms. Moon goes deep into the pros and cons. She consulted historians and grammarians. She asked Paul Brians, retired Professor of English at Washington State University and the author of “Common Errors in English Usage.” He concluded that “Some object to the familiar abbreviation ‘Sierras,’ but this form, like ‘Rockies’ and ‘Smokies’ is too well-established to be considered erroneous.”

My own conclusion is that if you are just chatting with your friend about going hiking in the Sierras, that’s fine. But if you are writing formally, and don’t want snarky comments from language purists, go with Sierra Nevada. But not just Sierra, because that might be mistaken for the Sierra Madre in Mexico or the Sierra de Cordoba in Argentina.

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The Stars and Stripes Forever

My idea of a fabulous 4th of July includes eating a hamburger, corn on the cob, and watermelon, singing the Star Spangled Banner, watching fireworks, and listening to a live band play The Stars and Stripes Forever.

I would like to hear The Declaration of Independence read aloud too, but I haven’t heard that on the 4th in decades.

I may not get all those wonderful things this year, but at least I can watch and listen to the U.S. Army Field Band and Soldier’s Chorus play and sing the Stars and Stripes Forever.

Did you know that John Philip Sousa not only wrote the march, but he wrote lyrics for it too? And I don’t mean “Be kind to your web-footed friends,” as fun as that is. I mean real patriotic lyrics.

I didn’t know that until quite recently. Here they are:

First strain
Let martial note in triumph float
And liberty extend its mighty hand
A flag appears ‘mid thunderous cheers,
The banner of the Western land.
The emblem of the brave and true
Its folds protect no tyrant crew;
The red and white and starry blue
Is freedom’s shield and hope.

Let eagle shriek from lofty peak
The never-ending watchword of our land;
Let summer breeze waft through the trees
The echo of the chorus grand.
Sing out for liberty and light,
Sing out for freedom and the right.
Sing out for Union and its might,
O patriotic sons.

Second strain
𝄆 Other nations may deem their flags the best
And cheer them with fervid elation
But the flag of the North and South and West
Is the flag of flags, the flag of Freedom’s nation. 𝄇

Trio
Hurrah for the flag of the free!
May it wave as our standard forever,
The gem of the land and the sea,
The banner of the right.
Let tyrants remember the day
When our fathers with mighty endeavor
Proclaimed as they marched to the fray
That by their might and by their right
It waves forever.

Grandioso
Hurrah for the flag of the free.
May it wave as our standard forever
The gem of the land and the sea,
The banner of the right.
Let tyrants remember the day
When our fathers with mighty endeavor
Proclaimed as they marched to the fray,
That by their might and by their right
It waves forever.

The “first strain” must be very tricky to sing at the pace the march is usually played. The Army chorus in this video sing the “Trio” and “Grandioso” which really function as the chorus of the piece.

And if you want something thoroughly silly, you can watch a rendition from the Muppet Show, with Sam the Eagle, the Swedish chef, Beaker, Bobo, Animal, a bewigged penguin, and some chickens.

Hurrah for the flag of the free! Long may it wave. Have a fabulous Independence Day!

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A Chico Fourth of July — Centennial Version

Weekly Butte Record 1 July 1876

Our celebrations of Independence Day are pretty tame compared to the way they enjoyed the Fourth in Chico in 1876. Here’s the July 4th entry from Bidwell’s diary in 1876:

Tues. July 4
Warm, very – no wind. = Bells rang & cannon & anvils roared all last night – Celebration went off well – good oration by Rev. Mr Dickerman – Fireworks & ball in evening. = Lost our greyhound, Roamer = Haynes had watermelons ripe in town. =

The celebration was announced in the newspaper a few days before the event. Citizens were urged to decorate their buildings with “evergreens, flags, and appropriate emblems.”

The Butte Record published a report of the proceedings the following Saturday. Everybody turned out for the “patriotic exercises”. Here is an excerpt about the parade and the speeches:

The Pavilion, where the parade concluded and the speeches were given, stood on Broadway between 4th and 5th.

An oration by a public figure was a must. That would be followed by the reading of the Declaration of Independence and a lengthy patriotic poem, which the Record printed in full. It was a day-long event, and as Bidwell notes, it started the night before, and went on well into the evening of the 4th with fireworks and dancing.

Watermelons were a feature, then as now. Roamer the greyhound was frightened by all the noise. He was found a few days later seven miles away at Hog Springs, on the Humboldt Road.

Bells ringing and cannon firing were a popular way to mark Independence Day.  But what’s this about “anvils roared?” How do they do that?

anvil

If you didn’t have a cannon (or even if you did), “firing the anvil” was a great way to generate noise and excitement in the 19th century. All you needed were two anvils and some black powder, which you could get from your friendly neighborhood blacksmith. Here’s what you do:

(I don’t recommend trying this at home, even if you do happen to have an anvil. It’s very dangerous.)

Take one anvil and turn it upside down. On the underside is a hollow about the size of a brick. Pour in some gunpowder and place a fuse or a trail of gunpowder. Then place the other anvil right side up on top. When you light off the gunpowder, you will get a terrific explosion and the top anvil will fly at least a hundred feet in the air. It will come down too, so clear the deck.

You can find some examples of anvil firing on YouTube, like this one.

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