goldfields

“Left Sweet Water this morning, course SW. Crossed the divide which separates the water of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and after a travel of 20 miles reached Little Sandy, a branch of Green river – 1 buffalo was killed.”

Leaving the Sweetwater River, the emigrants took the gradual climb up through South Pass, as a few wagon trains had done before them, and many, many more would do in the following years. As George R. Stewart wrote,”Here, at the summit of the Rocky Mountains, the very backbone of the continent, the grade was easy and the pass itself was more like a broad plain, so level that you were never sure when you passed from the Atlantic to the Pacific watershed.” (The California Trail)

South Pass--hardly the inspiring vista you expect for the Continental Divide.

Meanwhile the company awaited the return of John Gray, who had set off in search of the trappers who would surely be interested in the items (alcohol) that some members of the group had brought along to sell.

Stay tuned for more about the trappers and John Gray.

“Thursday, 15th. As many of the company had articles of traffic which they wished to dispose of at Green river, a subscription was raised to recompense any who would go and find the trappers. John Gray started in pursuit of them, while the company marched on slowly, waiting for his return. Travelled about 6 miles today.”

John Gray and W.G. Romaine had set out on July 6th to see if there were any fur-trappers camped at Green River, where the trappers usually had their rendezvous at this time of year. They didn’t find anyone, so the two men came back on the 13th. But other members of the party were anxious to find the trappers, since they had items that they wished to trade, so Gray set out once again on the 15th.

Gray (or Grey) and Romaine were part of Father De Smet’s missionary party; Gray was listed as a trapper, and Romaine as a “pleasure seeker,” or tourist. Romaine was an Englishman, and was often referred to as “Lord” Romaine, although whether he was really a lord I don’t know. Both men returned to the States without going all the way to California or Oregon.

Bidwell doesn’t mention it in his journal, but elsewhere he reveals that the “articles of traffic” were bottles or kegs of liquor. In “The First Emigrant Train to California” Bidwell says:

“Approaching Green River in the Rocky Mountains, it was found that some of the wagons, including Captain Bartleson’s, had alcohol on board, and that the owners wanted to find trappers in the Rocky Mountains to whom they might sell it. This was a surprise to many of us, as there had been no drinking on the way.”

No drinking—because Bartleson was saving it up to sell to thirsty trappers, a bit of entrepreneurship that hadn’t occurred to young John Bidwell.

“Saturday, 10th. Travelled about 14 miles and stopped to kill and dry meat. Buffalo began to grow scarce.”

By this time on their journey the company had almost exhausted its supplies of flour and other foodstuffs. Bidwell had laid in extra supplies, but he doesn’t say how much he had left. The company knew they still had a long way to go, and began to kill buffalo and dry the meat, with the hope that the jerky would last them until California.

However they had left their plans to “make meat” until too late. Crossing the plains they had seen vast herds of buffalo, but now as they traveled up the Sweetwater River toward the Continental Divide, they saw fewer and fewer. They killed twenty buffalo on the 8th and ten on the 9th. On the 11th Bidwell would record that they killed 6 or 7 the day before, and 4 or 5 on the 11th. Meat on the hoof was dwindling just at the time they realized how much they would need it.

“Monday, 5th. The hills continued to increase in height. After travelling 16 miles we encamped at a noted place called Independence Rock. This is a huge isolated rock covering an area, perhaps half a square mile, and rising in shape of an irregular obtuse mound to the height of 100 feet. It took its name from the celebration of the 4th of July at this place by Capt. Wm. Sublette, and it now bears many names of the early travelers to these regions.”

Independence Rock is located in southwestern Wyoming, near the Sweetwater River. Captain Sublette, a famous early fur trader, camped here on July 4th, 1830, and gave Independence Rock its name. Father De Smet at first thought “it had received this pompous name from its isolated situation and the solidity of its basis,” but he was soon set right. It was also known as the “Great Record of the Desert,” because travelers made a practice of carving their names into the rock. Bidwell and company were no exception. On the 6th he records that “All hands were anxious to have their names inscribed on this memorable landmark, so that we did not start until nearly noon.”

“Friday, 2nd. Continued to coast up the N. fork [of the Platte River]; the bottoms of the river were in many places completely covered with Glauber Salts, so much so that even handfuls could be taken up perfectly white.”

Glauber’s salt is a hydrous sodium sulfate mineral, also known as sal mirabilis (wonderful or miraculous salt.) It was formerly used as a laxative, much as Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) was, until gentler methods came along. Now the mineral is mainly used in the manufacture of detergents, and in paper pulping.

“Saturday, 3rd. Left the N. fork; a distance of 12 miles took us to a spring of cool, though unpleasantly tasted water. The day was intensely warm, and road mountainous; killed four buffalo and two deer.”

“Sunday, 4th. Pursued our way over hills and dales, scorched with heat; came to a small copse of red willows, from which issued excellent springs of water. Three buffalo killed, distance travelled 22 miles.”

Neither Bidwell, Jimmy John, or Father De Smet make mention of any celebration of Independence Day on the 4th of July, although it could hardly have gone unremarked. Their focus was on the day-to-day difficulties of the journey: the rough terrain, the need to find food and water, and the imperative to press on.

I’m playing catch-up here. I’ve been out of town for a few days, plus I should go back and pick up an incident I skipped over earlier in the month. So here is what John Bidwell was doing on the trail during the latter half of June, 1841.

“Sunday, 13th. A mournful accident occurred in the camp this morning–a young man by the name of Shotwell while in the act of taking a gun out of the wagon, drew it with the muzzle towards him in such a manner that it went off and shot him near the heart. He lived about an hour and died in the full possession of his senses.”

This was the only death during the entire dangerous trip. George Shotwell was “buried in the most decent manner our circumstances would admit of, after which a funeral sermon was preached by Mr. Williams.”

The company continued up the Platte River, passing Chimney Rock and Scotts Bluff. On Tuesday, June 22nd they arrived at Fort Laramie, an outpost owned at that time by the American Fur Company. Bidwell spelled it Larimie, Jimmy John spelled it Laramy, and Father De Smet, giving it a French air, spelled it La Ramee. There was another fort nearby, Fort Lupton, and they camped in between the two forts. They stayed to rest on Wednesday, and “the things of Mr. Shotwell were sold at auction.”

“Monday, 28th. Passed an immense quarry of beautiful white alabaster; 3 buffalo killed, distance traveled 18 miles, encamped on a little rivulet affording as good water as ever run.” According the Father De Smet, the men spent the evening carving the alabaster; some of them made pipes that they might give as gifts to the Indians, but the alabaster could not withstand heat, and broke.

“We gradually receded from the river in order to pass through a gap in a range of high hills called Scott’s Bluffs. As we advanced towards these hills, the scenery of the surrounding country became beautifully grand and picturesque–they were worn in such a manner by the storms of unnumbered seasons that they really counterfeited the lofty spires, towering edifices, spacious domes, and in fine all the beautiful mansions of cities. We encamped among these envious objects having come about 20 miles.”

After the flat monotony of the prairies, Scotts Bluff provided a welcome change of scenery for travelers on the Oregon Trail. Many travelers remarked on the fantastic forms taken by the steep-sided hills in this area of western Nebraska. More information about the history and geology of Scotts Bluff can be found at the website for Scotts Bluff National Monument and the Oregon-California Trails Association.

My husband Jim and I went on a little excursion today to see Bidwell Point in western Glenn County. Bidwell Point is a large hill overlooking the town of Elk Creek, just on the other side of Stony Creek. We were thinking about climbing to the top, but the access road was posted “No Trespassing”, and besides, it was a hot afternoon, so instead we just took a picture.

John Bidwell explored this area in the summer of 1844, at the request of Thomas O. Larkin, the American consul at Monterey, who wanted to find a land grant for his children. Together with one Indian guide, Bidwell traveled by horseback up the Sacramento Valley on the west side of the river. At the present site of Colusa he turned west and traveled across the hot, dry plain until he reached Stony Creek, in the foothills of the Coast Range. Here they met Indians who had never seen a white man before. They followed the creek downstream (northward).

“To our surprise, the number of Indians increased to many hundreds. In half a day we passed seventeen large villages. They had evidently come from their permanent villages and made their temporary homes by this fresh flowing stream. These Indians certainly proved anything but hostile; they were evidently in great awe of us, but showed no signs of displeasure. There were hundreds before and behind us, and villages were made aware of our coming before we reached them.”

Ever careful of his safety, Bidwell took precautions for the night. Although the Indians seemed friendly, he didn’t want to leave himself exposed and possibly lose his horses or equipment. So he retreated to the top of what is now called Bidwell Point.

“Seeing a conical hill, I determined to make it my camp for the night. I now told the old Indian (through his guide) that I was going there to sleep, and that his people must all go to their villages and not come near me during the night.”

They barricaded the top of the hill with rocks and took turns keeping watch during the night. But not one Indian approached them, and the next day, which was the 4th of July, they proceeded northward. They came to a large Indian village with a dance house.

“It seemed a gala day with the Indians, or else they made it so for my especial benefit. Male and female were attired in their gayest costumes . . . and to round up the day’s festivities they got up the gayest and largest dance, accompanied by not unmusical chants, I ever saw or heard.”

Bidwell’s recollections form the third chapter in a history of Colusa County published in 1891.