Indian War on the Klamath River

Letter from Jas. C. Callen to John Bidwell, courtesy of the California State Library.

Letter from Jas. C. Callen to John Bidwell, courtesy of the California State Library.

On February 7, 1854 James C. Callen wrote John Bidwell about an “Indian ware on the clammoth river.” A ’49er, Callen had been residing in Butte County in 1850, but by 1854 he was living on the Klamath River “ten miles from Yreiky.” Here is the first half of his letter, reporting on a skirmish with Indians. Spelling is just the way he wrote it. Note that he always spells ‘they’ phonetically as ‘tha’, the rest you can probably figure out.

Siskiyou County, Callens Fery Febuary 7th / 54

Mr. J Bidwell   Sir

Indian ware on the clammoth river

Some of the miners on cottonwood bought squaws of the Indians and pade for them in horses and guns some time after these traids the squaws run away then the boys told the Sitisans that the Indians had some stoling horses and if tha would help them to provision and aminison tha would bring them a way, so tha ware all furnished and when tha came to the place whare the indians ware tha found them all in a large cave and well prepared for wore. So tha wint back and told a worse taile than ever Sitisens and traiders made up a second out fit for the boys and about forty of them turned out now to take the cave and horses when tha came in Sight the indians hailed them and inquired there bisness the cottonwood boys thinking it would ondly be sport for them fired on the indians tha soon saw the indians had the advantage and give ground the indians fought them about four miles and killed four whites and wounded five more one Indian was kild and several wounded this caused the excitement the indians sent them word to come on that tha had a good fourt and could cleare out all that could come you can se the last fight in the mountin herreld.

The Mountain Herald was a weekly newspaper published in Yreka beginning in 1853. This letter is in the John Bidwell Papers at the California State Library, where you can also read the Mountain Herald. The transcription is my own.

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Across the Isthmus of Panama with Mary Jane Megquier

Apron Full of Gold: The Letters of Mary Jane Megquier from San Francisco 1849-1856

Apron Full of Gold: The Letters of Mary Jane Megquier from San Francisco 1849-1856. 2nd edition. Edited and with an introduction by Polly Welts Kaufman.

Mary Jane Megquier, known to family and friends as Jennie, came with her husband to California in 1849, leaving her three children behind in Maine with relatives. At first the plan was only for her husband to go — many a man left wife and children behind when he headed for the goldfields. But at the last minute Jennie decided to go along. As she wrote to her daughter from New York, “they think some of taking me along with them, it is so expensive getting womens work they think it will pay well . . .”

Although she missed her children terribly, she thoroughly enjoyed the adventure of traveling to California and living in mining camps and San Francisco. “Women’s work” was hard, but the lively variety she found all around her more than made up for it.

Her letters home, written between 1849 and 1856, are one of the best portraits of life during the Gold Rush. I have read a number of covered wagon accounts of the overland journey, but this was the first time I read a first-hand account of traveling the Panama route. Crossing the isthmus was an uncomfortable and often dangerous undertaking, yet Jennie reveled in it, in spite of the heat, damp, insects, disease, bad food, and lack of comfort. She was no complainer.

Here is an excerpt in which she describes the journey up river from Chagres:

After waiting three or four hours we were stowed into a canoe (Mr. Calkin, Dr. [her husband] and myself) twenty feet long two feet wide with all our luggage which brought the top of the canoe very near the waters edge. We seated ourselves on our carpet bags on the bottom of the boat, if we attempted to alter our position we were sure to get wet feet, notwithstanding our close quarters the scenery was so delightful the banks covered with the most beautiful shrubbery and flowers, trees as large as our maple covered with flowers of every colour and hue, birds of all descriptions filled the air with music while the monkeys alligators and other animals varied the scene, that we were not conscious of fatigue.

Two natives pushed the boat with poles unless the water was too swift for them they would step out very deliberately and pull us along, Was it not a scene for a painter to see us tugged along by two miserable natives. There are ranchos every few miles where you can get a cup of miserable muddy coffee with hard bread of which we made dinner, then we doubled ourselves in as small compass as possible and started, under a broiling sun the thermometer at one hundred.

Arrived at our destination for the night about five o clock where we seated ourselves on the bank to watch the arrival of the canoes, before dark there were one hundred Americans on that small spot of ground all busy as bees making preparation for the night. Our part thought it best to have the natives cook their supper, it was rich to see us eating soup with our fingers, as knives, forks, spoons tables, chairs are among the things unknown, they have no floors, the pigs, dogs, cats ducks, hens, are all around your feet ready to catch the smallest crumb that may chance to fall.

As I was the only lady in the party they gave me a chance in their hut but a white lady was such a rare sight they were coming in to see me until we found we could get no sleep, we got up and spent the remainder of the night in open air, At four we took up our bed and walked, Would to God I could describe the scene. The birds singing monkeys screeching the Americans laughing and joking the natives grunting as they pushed us along through the rapids was enough to drive one mad with delight when we got tired sitting, we would jump out and walk to cut out the crooks which were many, we could never see more than ten rods, sometimes we would find that we were going northeast when our proper course was directly opposite.

At four in the evening we reached Gorgona, another miserable town, where you will find the French, New York and California Hotels, but you cannot get decent food, nor a bed to lie upon at either house. There is a church in town which is not as respectable as the meanest house you have in town . . .

More from Mary Jane next time.

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A Visit to Vina

What do a 12th century Spanish monastery, Peter Lassen’s ranch, Stanford University, and New Clairvaux Vineyard have in common? They all come together at Vina.

I have been planning to take the short (19 miles from Chico) drive north to Vina for ages now. I finally did it today, together with my husband Jim and our daughter and her family. If you live in Northern California, it is well worth the trip, in history alone, and if you like wine, that’s another reason to go.

New Clairvaux Chapter House.

New Clairvaux Chapter House.

The Abbey of New Clairvaux is a Cistercian Trappist monastery following the Rule of St. Benedict. It was founded in 1955, and is home to over 20 monks, who spend their days in prayer and manual labor. They care for walnut and prune orchards and grape vineyards.

The abbey site in Tehama County is rich in history. It was once part of the 22,000 acre Rancho Bosquejo, the Mexican land grant belonging to Peter Lassen. In 1852 the property passed to Henry Gerke, who was successful in growing grapes and making wine. It was during Gerke’s time that the site acquired the name Vina.

Later the ranch was bought by Leland Stanford, governor and railroad baron, who built up a land empire of 55,000 acres. His “Great Vina Ranch” became the world’s largest wine operation. The huge brick fermenting plant built by Stanford still stands. Difficulties in growing and processing the grapes in the hot Sacramento Valley meant that the wine business was never as successful as Stanford hoped, but he did pretty well with brandy.

Stanford's fermenting building.

Stanford’s fermenting building.

After Stanford’s death in 1893 his wife carried on the business, which helped to finance Stanford University, but increasing pressure from the temperance movement led the University to get out of the wine-making business. They uprooted the grapevines and sold off the land in 1919. Sixty years ago the Cistercians bought it from a dairy farmer named Flynn. In addition to the orchards, they re-planted grapes and established New Clairvaux Vineyard.

Lassen and Stanford are not the only famous California names associated with Vina. William Randolph Hearst comes into the picture as well. For the last 20 years the monks have been reconstructing a medieval Spanish chapter house using stones from a monastery that Hearst acquired in Spain. Hearst never used the stones to build his second castle. Instead they have come home to the abbey. You can read more about this project at Sacred Stones.

For fascinating history in a scenic package, Vina is hard to beat. Go visit it soon. The linked websites have all the visiting information.

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Public Reaction to the Lemm Ranch Murders

The murders of four Chinese men at the Lemm Ranch near Chico in March 1877, plus several cases of arson against the Chinese and their employers, put Chico on the map as a locus of anti-Chinese agitation. Even though most Californians thought that there were too many Chinese in the state, they stopped short of endorsing murder and arson as a solution. And in Chico, businessmen and civic leaders feared that this lawlessness was making Chico look bad.

Justice was swift. By April 1877 men who had set fires on Bidwell’s property, and that of other farmers, were on trial. The trial of the Lemm Ranch murderers followed. Both arsonists and murderers were convicted and sentenced.

John Bidwell, on a trip to San Francisco, wrote to Annie about what people were saying:

It is astonishing how deep and general the sentiment is against the Chico murderers and incendiaries, and the swift justice that was meted out to the latter receives warm and unanimous commendation. I had no idea how earnestly the people were watching our movements. Am now satisfied we have not only the moral power of the State with us — as well as the law on our side — but a vast majority of the people. In other words, the “Caucasian” element is really an insignificant minority.

Bidwell was relieved that he was not standing alone against public opinion. Anti-Chinese agitation was not over, not in Chico or the rest of the state, but at least the worst actions were condemned and rejected.

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More Fun with Demographics

In 1850, two years after John Bidwell discovered gold in the Feather River, the population of Butte County was 3574 (according to figures in Mansfield’s History of Butte County). Ten years later, the population had quadrupled to 12,106. 20% were Chinese.

Page 37John Bidwell, 40 years old, is listed as a farmer. His name is followed by Oliver Proal, Farm Superintendent, and ten men listed as farm laborers. Then there is a chief clerk (Geo. Wood) and three clerks, a master miller and a miller, a millwright, a master wagon maker, master blacksmith and a blacksmith, two teamsters, two gardeners, and more farm laborers.

These twenty-nine men are all listed at the same address (“dwelling-house”). John Bidwell was in 1860 living in his two-story adobe house. He certainly had room for some of these men, but they can’t all have been living with him. Some of them must have been living in nearby buildings, such as the grist-mill. In fact, since the census taker skips a dwelling number in his list, going from 334 for Bidwell’s place to 336 for the hotel, it may be he forgot to record a bunkhouse or something.

After Bidwell’s establishment the next listing is for A.J. Edgery, hotel keeper, and his wife Annie, plus their employees: a barkeeper and a hostler, two Chinese cooks and three Chinese waiters. Bidwell has no Chinese employees at this time.

On the next two pages we see the Indians who worked for Bidwell and lived in their village near his house. There are 52 Indians listed, 41 males and 11 females. First on the list is Lafonse, 20, listed as a vaquero. Panch, Billy, and Nunco are herders. Eight men are gardeners, and most of the rest are farm laborers. Yummarine, at 43 the oldest man on the list, is listed as chief.

Nopanny, 20, heads the list of women, who are all recorded as “day laborer” rather than “farm laborer.” Women and children and older men not directly employed by Bidwell were not counted.

Bidwell’s real estate is valued at $52,200 and his personal property (livestock, buildings, etc) at $56,660. This is far and away the largest estate in the county. Other farmers have estates of anywhere from $400 to $4000 in real estate, with a couple as high as $10.000. A few representative names: Washington Henshaw $10,000 (real) and $4000 (personal), William Sharkey $10,000 and $7000, Thomas Wright $6000 and $2000, William Northgraves $6180 and $800, and James L. Keefer $3800 and $10,000.

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Fun with Demographics

The top of a page from the 1860 Federal Census for Chico Twp, Butte Co., California.

The top of a page from the 1860 Federal Census for Chico Twp, Butte Co., California.

I have been looking at the 1860 Federal Census for Butte County. I accessed it at a website called fold3.com, a division of ancestry.com. Fold3 focuses on military records, but for some reason it is the only place I found for the 1860 census. This is a subscription website, but you can get a 7-day free trial. You can look at, print out, or download a lot in seven days.

In 1860 the census was taken in eleven townships in Butte County: Bidwell, Cascade, Chico, Eureka, Hamilton, Kimshew, Mountain Springs, Ophir, Oregon, Oro, and Wyandotte. The Chico township was not just the newly-founded city of Chico; it stretched from Pine Creek and Rock Creek on the north, to Durham on the south. Anyone familiar with Butte County history will recognize names on the list. The last name listed is W. Northgrave [sic], 60 years old, who was living with P. C. Munn and Jas. M. Maxey, hotel keepers, and Sing, a cook.

The census was taken by J.S. Henning and Joseph Pierce, and neither of them totaled their counts when they reached the end of a township. But according to Mansfield, in 1860, Chico Township. had 1482 residents, out of a county population of 12,106. The largest township was Ophir (Oroville) with 3064 people.

Many pages are just long lists of miners, but mining was giving way to agriculture. In Chico, farmer and farm laborer are the most common occupations. Women are still out-numbered by men; pages list anywhere from 1 to 10 females. Probably two-thirds of those females are children, because families are beginning to appear.

The census includes Chinese men (I haven’t spotted any women) and “tame” Indians (those who were working for settlers). One column on the census sheet is for “Color: White, black, or mulatto.” Once in a long while a black miner or cook is listed, and then a “B” is noted in the column. The census sheet doesn’t take into account Asians or Native Americans, so the census taker wrote in either “Ind” for Indian, or “mon” for Mongolian. At the bottom of the page, where he was supposed to total “no. white males” “no. white females” “no. colored males”, and “no. colored females,” all the Asians and Indians go into the white column, since they don’t have a column of their own. Anyone wanting to total these groups would have to go through the census one name at a time.

Here is a representative family, one who still has their name on the map. I won’t list all the names, but summarize some of the list:

J.A. Keefer, 26, farmer and P.M. (postmaster) Rock Creek (should be J.L.)

Rebecca Keefer, 28

5 children, ages 6 years to 4 months

Latham Odell, 37, farm laborer

Jno. Odell, 29, farm laborer (these two were Mrs. Keefer’s brothers)

Tho. Allen, 26, farm laborer

9 male Indians named Sam, Bill, Slick, Pete, Tom, Dick, John, Aleck, and Tim, and two female Indians, Polly and Judah, all designated as farm laborers

2 female Indians, Jenny and Clemmie, house servants. All the Indians are between the ages of 16 and 27.

In addition there is a note written sideways in the margin: “16 Indians in Rancheria uninployed [sic].” These may be older Indians, or children. The census didn’t bother to count Indian children.

I’ll have more from the census next time.

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The Lemm Ranch Murders

An attack on six Chinese workers on the Lemm Ranch shocked the citizens of Chico and brought infamy to the town. The Lemm Ranch was located near today’s intersection of Highway 32 and Forest Avenue. On the night of March 14, 1877, as six Chinese laborers lay asleep in their cabin, a gang of five men and a boy broke into the cabin and searched for money to steal. They then shot the men in cold blood as they lay in their bunks. They piled bedding in the middle of the room, doused the pile with kerosene and set fire to it, then fled out the door.

Three of the Chinese men were killed outright and one died the next morning. Wo Ah Lin, who had feigned death, threw himself on the fire and extinguished it, then staggered to the ranch house to report the attack. There his wounded arm was bound up, but nobody at the ranch house went to attend to Wo’s dead and wounded companions. Nor did they send to town for help.

Wo walked the two miles to town where he sought out Constable Ben True, a man trusted by the Chinese. True alerted Butte County Deputy Sheriff James Hegan, who rode out the next morning to the scene of the crime. As the bodies were brought in to Chico,  horrified onlookers clustered on the streets to watch. Prejudice against the Chinese ran high, but no one expected outright murder. A citizen’s committee was quickly organized to investigate and to raise reward money.

John Bidwell reported on the committee in his diary:

Fri. March l6.
Warm bright beautiful day. = Laying out dump vineyard. = Meeting of Citizen’s Committee in Masonic Hall against the murders of the Chinese on Lemm Ranch, = Received notice last night from a “committee” to discharge Chinese. . .

Threatening letters were sent to a number of employers in Chico. Bidwell’s note read as follows:

To General Bidwell– Sir; you are given notice to hereby discharge your Mongolian help within ten days from date, or suffer the consequences. Let this be enough.  signed Committee

Bidwell ignored the demand, but since the post office was in his business building, he had the mailbox watched for suspicious letters. Within days, a suspect named Fred Conway was caught dropping threatening letters in the mail, and he was soon arrested. He confessed and gave the names of others involved in the murders.

Conway was convicted, and the other four men pled guilty to the murders. They were given sentences of twenty-five years each in San Quentin, and one, Thomas Stainbrook, received a sentence of twenty-seven and a half years. It would seem that justice had been served.

But in the town of Chico there was more fellow feeling for the white murderers than there was for their dead Chinese victims. Four years later, in 1881, men from Chico sent a petition to the governor for the murderers’ release.  Governor George Perkins, formerly of Oroville, pardoned four of the men and they returned to Chico. Only Thomas Stainbrook remained in prison.

Most of the information for this entry was taken from a monograph by Michele Shover: Chico’s Lemm Ranch Murders and Anti-Chinese Campaign of 1877, published by the Association for Northern California Records and Research in 1998. This essay also appears in her collection entitled Exploring Chico’s Past (2005). Both books are highly recommended for anyone interested in Chico history.

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Chinese Workers Strike

Chinese Workers on John Bidwell's Ranch. Special Collection, Meriam Library, CSUChico.

Chinese Workers on John Bidwell’s Ranch. Special Collection, Meriam Library, CSUChico.

John Bidwell always had a need for workers — lots of workers, both skilled and unskilled. He had a diverse workforce — whites predominated, but he also had Indians, Mexicans and the occasional African-American.  Bidwell was willing to employ anyone who would do the job, but he was always trying to control expenses. He employed Chinese workers because they were generally hard-working, reliable, and cheaper to pay.

But they weren’t always happy with the lower pay. George Moses Gray, who was employed as the Rancho Chico orchard manager from 1880 to 1890, tells the following story about Chinese and Indian workers on the ranch:

All the time I was on the ranch we only had one strike. We let a contract for gathering and hulling the almond crop, at 3 cents per pound, dry weight. They (the Chinese workforce) had only worked half a day and had hardly got started [when they went on strike].

I went over and asked the General what I should do about it. After considering a while, he said, “Go down and talk with Noppaney and see if the Indians will do the job; the men can knock them and the boys and girls pick them up and the squaws hull them.”

They were glad to take the job and they did good work and we got the work done at just a little more than we were going to pay the Chinamen.

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The Chinese in Chico

The attitude toward the Chinese in California was one of ambivalence. Employers liked getting labor at low cost. Middle-class families that employed Chinese domestic servants could hardly do without them. And everyone in town turned out to watch the colorful Chinese New Year festivities.

From John Bidwell’s diary for 1871:

Sun. February 19.
J.R.Kennedy & wife also self & wife, went to Ah Sun’s & to Chinatown in evening, found Chinese joyous over their New Year.

sc4766 Chinese New Year Parade / Procession Chico Main near 2nd

Photograph shows a Chinese New Year Parade through downtown Chico, 1894. Special Collections, Meriam Library CSUChico.

But the benefits from the Chinese community were overshadowed by fear, resentment, and prejudice. To the white population, the Chinese were a foreign element that would never assimilate into the American body politic. They were too different. Everything from their food and clothing to their religion was alien.

White workingmen resented the Chinese for taking jobs they thought should be theirs. When times got tough and jobs were scarce, whites turned on the Chinese and blamed them for the loss of jobs. The economic depression of the 1870’s created widespread unemployment and deep resentment of Chinese immigrants.

Men banded together to drive out the Chinese. In Chico they formed a branch of a statewide society called The Order of Caucasians. Members included not only laborers, but store owners, farmers, teachers and lawyers. They rallied to the cry “The Chinese must go!” and repeatedly told John Bidwell and other employers to discharge their Chinese workers or else.

1874    Tues. May 19.
Weather cool and pleasant – Man at dairy abused Chinaman –

1886: Sun., August 29.
Events: Hoodlums threw stones at Chinamen – wounded one badly.-

The chief weapon used against the Chinese was arson. Men set fire to buildings in both of Chico’s Chinatowns. They sent death threats to General Bidwell and told him to get rid of his Chinese workers. Arsonists burned down buildings on the ranch. Chinese men were threatened, beaten, and shot at. For the most part the police ignored these crimes.

1877: Fri. March 9.
Cloudy, but warm, – began to drizzle, – rained all P.M. . . .  Both Chinatowns were set on fire last night.

The tension and agitation would culminate in murder.

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The Chinese in Butte County — and a Correction

Correction:  In reading the census tables, I thought Butte County had the highest percentage of Chinese residents in the state, but that honor goes to Trinity County. Although small in population, Trinity County had the largest proportion of Chinese miners and railroad workers.  In 1880, out of a population of 4939, 1951 (almost 40%) were Chinese.

Butte County reached its peak in 1852, when a state census showed 25% of Butte County residents were Chinese. The percentage was 20% in 1880 This fell off steeply after the Chinese Exclusion Act was passed in 1882.  Chinese immigration was rigidly limited, and older Chinese men (it was almost all men) died or returned to China.

Chinese Railroad Workers

Chinese Railroad Workers

When gold was discovered in 1848, it did not take long for the news to reach China.  Chinese gold-seekers, mostly from the province of Kwangtung started arriving in 1849 and continued coming throughout the next three decades. Immigrants on sailing ships from China could actually reach San Francisco in less time than it took to travel around Cape Horn, 4 months vs. 6 months.

At first the Chinese population in Butte County was concentrated in and around Oroville, where the men engaged in mining. Chinese miners took over abandoned gold claims and through diligence and teamwork extract the traces of gold left behind by less patient white miners who had moved on. They managed to make a living out of “played-out” mines, in spite of the burden of the Foreign Miners’ Tax.

The Foreign Miners’ Tax was levied against non-native born miners, but in reality it targeted only the Chinese. Foreign miners from Europe or South America were not hassled for the tax. The law passed in 1850 called for a tax of $20 per month. When this proved to be too high to collect, the tax was reduced to $4 per month in 1852. This was a major source of revenue for the state of California and it can be argued that state government was built on the backs of Chinese miners.

Mining remained a major occupation for Chinese workers throughout the 19th century, but as the gold dwindled, they moved into other occupations and became everything from ditch diggers and wood choppers to laundrymen and merchants. Many Chinese workers had also come to work on the transcontinental railroad, and when that was completed they migrated to the valley and swelled the ranks of available labor.

Next: Chinese Workers on Rancho Chico

Some of the above information was taken from The Chinese in Butte County, California, 1860-1920, by Susan W. Book.

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