Nikolai and Conchita Separated

Nikolai Rezanov left San Francisco Bay on May 11, 1806. By June 7 the Juno was back at Sitka, where he found the colony about to go under from a combination of starvation and the threat of an attack by Tlingit warriors. The provisions and reinforcements he brought from California were the salvation of the Russian colony in Alaska.

Rezanov spent the next month or so in Alaska, supervising the revival of the colony and writing lengthy dispatches to the directors of the Russian-American Company and the Tsar. In his dispatches he revealed his intention to marry Conchita, but couched the news in terms of business and politics to make it palatable to his superiors.

At the end of July he set sail for Okhotsk, on the eastern shore of Russia. Arriving in late August, he started off on the trip across Siberia. He fell ill at Irkutsk (by Lake Baikal) and spent three months there, then resumed his travels, only to relapse again at the trading post of Krasnoyarsk, halfway to Moscow. He would never leave it. He died of fever and exhaustion in Krasnoyarsk on March 8, 1807.

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The tomb of Nikolai Rezanov in Krasnoyarsk, destroyed by Bolsheviks in 1932.

Conchita waited, and it was not until 1808 that she heard rumors, brought by Russian otter hunters, that Rezanov had died on his way to St. Petersburg. Still she hoped, but as the years went by she must have known that he would never return. She moved with her family to Santa Barbara, and later to Monterey, when her father became governor of California in 1814. By 1818, 10 years after she first heard rumors of her fiance’s death, she was living in Mexico. As a young woman of good family and renowned beauty, she received many offers of marriage, but she refused them all.

Without exception, the men who sought my hand were worthy and honorable. After much deliberation and prayer I concluded that I could not and would not be joined in marriage to one whom I did not love . . . I felt that a certain lasting loyalty was demanded of me by a Higher Power–a loyalty to Nikolai and myself.

After the death of her parents, Conchita returned to California in 1829 and became a Franciscan lay sister. When a Dominican convent was established in Monterey in 1851, Conchita joined as a novice, and as Sister Maria Dominga, became California’s first native-born nun. She befriended a 13-year-old novice, and it was to this young friend, Sister Vincentia, that she confided the story of her romance with the courtly Russian. Decades later Sister Vincentia related the story to a priest, who wrote down her recollections of Conchita.

Although she never doubted as to his (Nikolai’s) deep loyalty and intense sincerity in her regard, she told me that from the evening he sailed away out through the Golden Gate she had somehow a deep, hidden, eerie feeling that stayed with her night and day.

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The tombstone of Conchita in the nuns’ cemetery in Benicia.

Maria de Concepcion Arguello died at the convent in Benicia on December 23, 1854.

The legend of Nikolai and Conchita, a compound of Spanish gaiety and passion and Russian melancholy and ardor, lives on in novels, poetry, and opera.

Next: The Love Story in Music and on the Stage

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Nikolai and Conchita

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N.P. Rezanov

Nikolai Rezanov must have looked quite impressive in his dress uniform, with the diamond Order of St. Anne on his breast and a laced bicorne hat under his arm. He went out of his way to be charming and courteous, distributing presents to one and all. He was aware of the need to “hide from the Spaniards our distress and needfulness,” so no mention was made of just how bad conditions were at the Russian colony in Alaska, or the real reason that they had come to California. He assured the Spaniards that Russia had no interest in extending their colonies southward.

Conchita was smitten with this courtly, handsome gentleman, resplendent in his uniform. She had never met anyone like him; he was an emissary from another world, the world of glittering courts and grand balls. He danced with her; together they explored the wooded hills of Yerba Buena; he told her stories of his travels in Europe, Asia, and the isles of the Pacific. She had never been farther from home than Monterey, and here was a man who had sailed around the world. In spite of her position as the daughter of the comandante of the presidio, she was leading a humdrum life in a small town in a cultural backwater. She was eager for a new life and Rezanov was the only chance she was ever likely to meet to change her fortune.

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Concepcion Arguello and Nikolai Rezanov as depicted on a mural in the Presidio Interfaith Chapel.

After only two weeks in California, Nikolai made a proposal of marriage to Conchita, and she accepted. Conchita began to dream of travel to Europe, of wearing beautiful dresses and meeting the noble and great. But what would her parents think?

Her parents were shocked and appalled. How could their daughter think of marrying a foreigner? He wasn’t even a Roman Catholic. It was impossible.

But Rezanov was not an expert diplomat for nothing, and a mere difference in religion was not going to stop him. If the marriage required a dispensation from the Pope, then he would see to it. He assured Conchita’s parents that once he was back in St. Petersburg, the Tsar would appoint him ambassador to Spain. He would make every necessary arrangement to bring about the marriage and return via Mexico to claim his bride. He was willing to make another trip around the world for love. And so her parents consented to a betrothal.

Many years later, Conchita told a friend how “Nikolai Rezanov came bounding into her life. How she loved him and how they planned for a life of love and happiness in far-off Russia.” Such were her dreams.

 

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A California Romance

My visit to Fort Ross reminded me about a story I have told previously, one of the great love stories from California history: the romance of Nikolai and Conchita. Over the next few posts I will reprise this tale for your enjoyment.

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N.P. Rezanov

In 1805-06 Nikolai Rezanov spent a miserable winter in the Russian outpost at Sitka. Life in the Russian colony was beyond wretched: the log cabins were cold and damp, the food stores were dwindling, the clothing was infested with vermin, the men suffered from scurvy, and there was no work to keep  them occupied—nothing to do but drink, brood, and fight.

In desperation, and in spite of winter storms, Rezanov put to sea and headed south to California. On March 28, 1806 the ship sailed into San Francisco Bay. They were welcomed by the Spanish, who had been expecting a Russian exploratory expedition to arrive. Rezanov was not that expedition, but he didn’t mention that. He told the comandante that he had been entrusted by his emperor with command over all his American territories (i.e., Alaska), and had come to California on orders to confer with the governor of the neighboring territory. This was not precisely true, but it was better than admitting that he and his men were starving.

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Artist’s conception of Maria de Concepcion Arguello.

The commander of the Presidio was Don Jose Dario Arguello. At dinner Rezanov met his gracious wife and eleven of the Arguello’s thirteen children. The eldest daughter was Maria de Concepcion, known to her family as Conchita. Fifteen years old, she was considered “the beauty of the two Californias.” She was tall and slender, with clear fair skin and sparkling brown eyes.

After a stinking, starving winter in Sitka, it’s not hard to see why Nikolai Rezanov fell for Conchita. She was not only beautiful; she was lively, charming, and kind. But what did Conchita see in the 42-year-old emaciated widower from Alaska?

Stay tuned for more of the story of Nikolai and Conchita.

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The Trees of Bidwell Park

9781935807476I went to ABC Books (on Mangrove Ave. in Chico) yesterday and bought a copy of The Trees of Bidwell Park, written by Roger J. Lederer and illustrated in color by Carol E. Burt.

(I encourage you to buy local whenever you can. ABC Books is an excellent used book store that also features new books by local authors.)

It’s a handy little book, only 96 pages, but describes over one hundred trees commonly found in Bidwell Park, around Chico, and probably in most of Northern California. Want to differentiate between the many kinds of oak trees found here? This book shows the way.

Color illustrations of the trees and their leaves and seeds, along with identification information, will help you name the trees as you walk through the park of around town.

The book is dedicated to “all those who work to maintain Chico’s reputation as a City of Trees,” but it is especially dedicated to Walt Dempsey, “botanist extraordinaire,” who for many decades led tree tours in Chico. (I took his tour once and now I know where the dawn redwood is on the Chico State campus.)

The authors also pay tribute to John and Annie Bidwell, who planted many trees in Chico, including some exotic varieties which at the time were new introductions to the United States. They also preserved Bidwell Park for us; Annie donated it to the city in 1905. Bidwell Park and our “City of Trees” are a precious legacy. This book is your guide to exploring the riches of Chico.

 

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When the Russians Left California

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Russian stamp showing Fort Ross

In 1841 the Russian-American Fur Company decided to leave California. They sold their holdings — lock, stock, and barrel — to John Sutter. The contract was signed in December, 1841, not long after John Bidwell arrived at Sutter’s Fort.

Sutter promptly hired Bidwell and after a few weeks of recuperation and learning Spanish, he sent him to the coast to oversee the dismantlement and acquisition of everything left by the Russians. It was a considerable amount of property and it took Bidwell over a year to deal with it.

Exactly what did John Sutter acquire in this deal? We know what was included from the Bill of Sale, which still exists in the John Augustus Sutter papers, housed in the Bancroft Library. A copy of the Bill of Sale, translated from French into English, has been posted online by the Fort Ross Conservancy.

For the price of $30,000 he got “the structures and chattels,” plus for an additional $3,868.16 he got “various merchandise, provisions, and goods.” The idea was that Sutter would pay in shipments of wheat to the Russian outpost at Sitka, Alaska. Sutter made a down payment of a mere $400 and then took years to pay off the balance of the debt.

What did Sutter get? Here is a list of the buildings at Fort Ross:

  • The old house for the commandant, two stories, built of beams. There are 6 rooms and a kitchen
  • The new house for the commandant… There are 6 rooms and vestibule
  • The house for Company employees, which has ten rooms and 2 vestibules
  • The barracks with 8 rooms and 2 vestibules
  • The old warehouse, two stories, with an open gallery and pillars
  • The granary, built of planks
  • A kitchen
  • A storehouse for provisions
  • An attached jailhouse
  • The chapel with a cupola
  • A well, 2 1/2 sazhens deep (a sazhen is about 7 feet)

Most of these buildings were demolished and shipped to Sutter’s Fort. That lumber was valuable. Outside the fort there were more buildings: various sheds, shops, kitchens, storehouses, and corrals. Furnishings included beds and bedding, tables, chairs, armoires, and cushions.

The Russians also had property at Bodega Bay and at three ranches, which had their own buildings and (as Bidwell wrote):

Even large circular threshing-floors (eras) in which the Russians were in the habit of tramping out their grain with bands of wild horses. These floors were made in the most substantial manner–the floors being made of hewn plank–six inches thick and perfectly matched together so tight that they would even hold water. The sides were planked about 8 feet high, with 4 1/2 in redwood lumber also hewn, for there was no such thing as sawmills there.

What a lot of hand labor went into those buildings and threshing floors!

Sutter got 1700 head of cattle, 940 horses and mules, and 900 head of sheep. These were either sold locally or herded overland to Sutter’s rancho. Most of the rest of the items were shipped by sea, for the sale included several boats:

  • a copper covered small boat, well suited for navigating all along the coast of California. 25 tons.
  • Two hide covered launches, one has 16 oars, the other, 18
  • A baidarka (a two or three-man kayak)
  • A long boat

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And then there was the agricultural equipment:

  • 27 ox drawn plows
  • 24 horse drawn plows
  • 26 pairs of plowshares
  • 21 harrows
  • 24 harnesses
  • 30 horse harnesses
  • 21 bridles
  • 29 saddles
  • 8 bridles bits
  • 20 shadracks (I don’t know what a “shadrack” is)
  • 16 saddle blankets
  • 5 4-wheeled carts
  • 10 2-wheeled carts

All very useful and very desirable to a man trying to get an agricultural empire off the ground. And once John Sutter had all this loot, he took his own sweet time paying his debt to the Russians.

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A Trip to Fort Ross on the Penultimate Day of 2019

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The corner blockhouse of the Fort Ross stockade is just visible on the left.

Last Monday I took a trip up the California coast to Fort Ross with some family members. Our #2 son and his family live in the Midwest; his wife was born in Russia. They were in California visiting us for the holidays. What better and more historical place to take a Russian than Fort Ross State Historic Park?

It was a beautiful sunny day, a perfect day for a drive along the coast. Fort Ross is rather remote — about 90 miles north of San Francisco — so it doesn’t get as many visitors as it deserves, but it is well worth the trip. The entrance fee is only $8 per car, so bring the whole family if you like. Bring a lunch too — there are picnic tables near the parking lot, or you can picnic near the shore with a rock for a table, as we did.

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A drawing of Fort Ross, 1843

According to the State Parks website:

Fort Ross was a thriving Russian-American Company settlement from 1812 to 1841. This commercial company chartered by Russia’s tsarist government controlled all Russian exploration, trade and settlement in the North Pacific, and established permanent settlements in Alaska and California. Fort Ross was the southernmost settlement in the Russian colonization of the North American continent, and was established as an agricultural base to supply Alaska. It was the site of California’s first windmills and shipbuilding, and Russian scientists were among the first to record California’s cultural and natural history. Fort Ross was a successfully functioning multi-cultural settlement for some thirty years. Settlers included Russians, Native Alaskans and Californians, and Creoles (individuals of mixed Russian and native ancestry.)

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Posing in front of Rotchev House

Fort Ross is one of the oldest properties in the California State Parks system. When the state acquired it in 1906, the only original building still standing was the Rotchev House. The rest of the fort — the stockade, the bastions, the officials’ quarters, the magazin (for storage),  and the chapel — have been restored to make the fort look as it did in its heyday.

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The restored Fort Ross chapel

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Inside Kuskov House, with samovar, tea set, sextant, candlestck, and journal

For more information about Fort Ross, including events at the fort, check out the Fort Ross Conservancy website.

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Christmas with the Bidwells 2019

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The Bidwell Mansion Association celebrated “Christmas with the Bidwells” on December 6th with delicious holiday treats, live music, and a vignette inside Bidwell Mansion.

In the vignette, Mrs. Swasey (LaShona Haskell), William Swasey (Mike Swann), John Bidwell (Nick Anderson) and Annie Bidwell (Robyn Engel), discuss Christmas dinner at Sutter’s Fort in 1845. You can read that true story in two previous posts here and here.

You can watch the video of their performance on YouTube. The sound quality will improve after a few seconds when the party moves into the dining room.

bidwell-dec-2019 (17)The last casaba melon was served by Katie the maid (Emily Ping).

Our thanks to our wonderful actors and all the friends who make Bidwell Mansion a special place to visit.

Enjoy!

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Pres Longley’s Christmas Column

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Pres Longley, the Bard of Butte

Pres Longley, the “Bard of Butte,” wrote many columns and poems for the newspapers. This column appeared in the Weekly Butte Record on December 26th, 1868. It’s lengthy, so I am just going to give you the beginning, and the part addressed “to the juvenile readers of the Record about Santa Claus.”

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In spite of the troubles of this old world, Pres encouraged his readers to live in gratitude and good cheer. He then tells the story of a “lazy girl” who hung up her stocking on Christmas Eve, and found nothing in it in the morning but the following two lines:

Your stocking is dirty, I’ll put nothing in it,
Till you wash out the dirt; ’twill take but a minute.

But another girl, who kept her stockings clean, had better luck, and here is her poem:

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Now that’s something I would like to find in my stocking, a nugget of gold, “as pure and as bright / as the stars that illumine the darkness of night.” May we all have a merry and joyful Christmas!

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“A Pioneer Repast” and Its Author

SFC18921225.1.13-2968-3644-972-709-243wA couple weeks ago I told you about Christmas dinner at Sutter’s Fort in 1845 and its crowning finale, a genuine John Bull plum pudding.  All the information for those two posts came from an article that appeared in the San Francisco Call newspaper on Christmas Day, 1892.

When I read that article, I knew I had found a fabulous story of early days in California. But I was faced with the question: Who wrote the article? There was no name attached, just the initial “S” at the end. Who could “S” be?

I am confident the story was written by William F. Swasey, a pioneer who traveled overland to California and arrived at Sutter’s Fort on September 23, 1845. According to Bancroft’s California Pioneer Register, Swasey was employed for two months or more at Sutter’s Fort as assistant bookkeeper. He was in the right place at the right time to experience the banquet, and he later he was known for writing about his California experiences.

At Sutter’s Fort he got to know Captain Sutter, John Bidwell, Samuel Hensley, and Pierson B. Reading. But he was young and ambitious, and went looking for bigger opportunities. After three or four months at Sutter’s he went on to Monterey, where he worked for both William Heath Davis and Thomas O. Larkin as a clerk.

SFC18961226.1.1-4457-3888-1777-2013-444wThen the Mexican War broke out and he joined the California Battalion. After the war, in 1847, he went to San Francisco, where he became a merchant, a dealer in real estate, and a notary public. He was a founding member of the Society of California Pioneers and wrote many  obituaries of the old pioneers that he had known. In 1891 he published The Early Days and Men of California, which gives his eye-witness account of the conquest of California and brief biographies of many pioneers. You can find the book on Google Books and download it for free.

We owe the preservation of Sutter’s New Helvetia Diary, a day by day account of events at Sutter’s Fort, to Mr. Swasey. I don’t know how it came into his hands, but in 1881 he passed it on to John Bidwell. In 1886 Bidwell delivered the diary to the historian Theodore H. Hittell. As Bidwell recorded in his journal:

Thurs., May 27. San Francisco
Norton Bush’s studio, Swasey’s,  Montgomery Block, Hittell’s Office. Col. Bee’s Events: Saw painting of Sutter’s Fort at N.Bush’s – Went to Swasey’s place or office.- Delivered old diary of Sutter to Hittell.

I am sure William Swasey had many other entertaining stories to tell about life in California. I hope I’ll be able to find some more to share.

 

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A Real John Bull Plum Pudding

The cook at Sutter’s Fort, an Englishman, promised he could produce a Christmas dinner “that would rival Delmonico’s best efforts.” (Delmonico’s Restaurant in New York City being the epitome of fine dining.)

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A banquet at Delmonico’s, not to be confused with dinner at Sutter’s Fort. From Wikipedia.

He also promised to top off the whole affair with “a dessert consisting of a real John Bull plum pudding.” It sounded irresistible, but where was he to get the necessary ingredients?

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As our author notes, the cook had no spices, no butter or milk or eggs. The only fruit he had was the little sour grapes that grew along the river banks. How could he make a real plum pudding?

After five courses of variations on beef and chile colorado, the diners were ready for relief to the rumbling stomachs. It was time for that crowning achievement, the plum pudding!

1a59d629c80c9b4c0f22b199d451548fHe brought it in with an air of great self-gratulation, and such a pudding! It is doubtful if another, to compare with it, has ever been or ever will be concocted. In its construction the cook had used common beef tallow liberally, and filled it with the aforesaid sour grapes, and seasoned it unsparingly with chile colorado, black pepper, salt and garlic. He also made a sort of sauce with the panoche sugar and tallow, and had also dosed that liberally with chile and black peppers.

The pudding was served to the diners, and they all watched as Captain Sutter tasted his portion. Captain Sutter was a man of the most courteous manners, and felt it his duty to eat whatever was put before him. But this dish bothered him.

As he would gulp it down, he would look around at us, with a sort of dazed and helpless look, evidently to see if we were really eating it, and how the thing was affecting us. But he was too well bred and dignified in bis manners to say a word.

Poor Captain Sutter! At last another man asked “Cook, what is it?”

“Why, sir.” replied the cook, “it is a regular Christmas plum pudding, Mexican style!”

And so ended Christmas dinner, 1845, at Sutter’s Fort.

rohrzuckerblock-piloncillo-2933-004hm02_600x600Note: The author mentions “panoche” sugar. This is unrefined Mexican brown sugar, formed into a cone, and also known as piloncillo. You can buy it in most grocery stores. “Unbolted” flour is coarse, unsifted whole wheat flour.

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